Sunlight Peak Climber's Log

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Matt Mahoney

Matt Mahoney - Jul 27, 2003 10:32 pm

Route Climbed: South slopes and E ridge from Purgatory Date Climbed: July 14, 2003  Sucess!

Summitted at 5 PM 12 hours after leaving Purgatory on a 22 hour day hike. I summitted Eolus about noon and Windom about 6:30 PM in dry weather. Went up nice slabs to the wrong side of the ridge (toward Sunlight Spire) and met up with some rock climbers who offered me a belay up a chimney, but after 90 minutes we realized it would be easier to traverse around to the other side of the ridge on class 3/4 rock. The move onto the summit block was tricky but not as hard or scary as I imagined. The hardest move is just after the register where you climb a 45 deg. slab up 10 ft. It is easier if you get some momentum and grab the top edge. From there you can traverse right, get on top, then step across the gap and mantle up onto the summit. Trip report.


rmjwinters - Oct 5, 2002 9:17 pm

Route Climbed: Chicago Basin and West face Date Climbed: July 23 1999  Sucess!

Great summit. Final boulder hop is excilarating! Left for Windom


climbcolorado - Aug 18, 2002 4:58 pm

Route Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: 8/09/02  Sucess!

Not very hard untill summit boulder!

ctruscot - Jul 4, 2002 8:08 am

Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: August 31, 2002  Sucess!

Climbed Windom Peak first then up scree field to Sunlight. Some of the old 14er books say you can camp at Twin Lakes. This is no longer true which means a steep headwall climb first thing in the morning. Mountain goats galore at Twin Lakes and also down in the basin in everyone's basecamp.

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