Bloody Fingers, 5.10a
Bloody Fingers wall is home to one of the better crack pitches at City of Rocks
, its namesake, Bloody Fingers (5.10a). The Falcon Guide claims that Intruding Dike (5.7) is another classic crack pitch (“super classic”) on this wall, but I beg to differ. The difference between the two routes, in comparison to other routes within their grade, is enormous. Bloody Fingers is superb from bottom to top, following one of the finer splitters in the park. Whereas Intruding Dike is broken up by a chasm and offers little in the way of 5.7 sustained climbing.
Bloody Fingers (aka Super Hits) wall is a small east facing wall located between Upper Breadloaves East and Lower Breadloaves East. Salt Lake City’s gym crowd hones in on the west faces of Breadloaves, in particularly what is known as Decadent Wall. For that reason I would be wary of trying to climb Bloody Fingers on the weekend during prime season at the City of Rocks.
Even though most of these folks don’t appear capable of climbing a trad route at this grade, they can easily top rope it from the top of Intruding Dike. All of the select routes listed below (7) face east and get good morning sun.
Select Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall
Double Vision- 5.10a**/Nice for a bolted slab line, five bolts through scoops and subtle mantels to a chain anchor. Bolts protect the cruxes well. You will use the right dike quite a bit towards the end. Makes for fun edges. Dow
Bloody Fingers- 5.10a****/My first route at the City and it is a good one. Stem up to a hand pocket and make a single, but fun, athletic move (for those less experienced). From there place gear at will up the splitter. Bloody Fingers is quite aesthetic to look at from the road. My second via the first time I climbed it did bloody his fingers, thus the name no doubt. If you are use to finger cracks, that shouldn’t be an issue. There are plenty of gratuitous hand jams as well. This is not the hardest 5.10a in the park by a long shot and would be 5.9 at many locations. Full rack to hands. 70m rope definitely works, 60m might as well. Dow
New Toy- 5.10bR*/”Constant danger of injury if you fall” as stated in the guide Ithought was slightly exaggerated. Thecrux move is more difficult than Double Vision but New Toy is not as sustained as Double. The crux is after the firstbolt as I recall and full on at the grade if for no other reason it is hard tofigure out the sequence the first time. Second half ofthe route eases way up as you land at the Bloody Finger anchor. Fully, but sparsely, bolted. Goodwin route from the 80’s. Dow
Twist and Crawl- 5.8***/Twist and Crawl is a typical Jtree 5.6 that somehow gets “3 stars” in Bingham’s book as a 5.8. It climbs the arête just to the right of the iconic Bloody Fingers. Climb run out, but easy, scooped face to the first bolt, then follow the bolts up to a seem. Place whatever gear you want really and finish to the summit where there are chains. Mixed. Rap chains on top, might take a 70m to get down to the soft dirt. Dow
Intruding Dike- 5.7***/Not that impressed. Not sustained for the grade. Do not understand the high rating and popularity. I did do Bloody Fingers first, perhaps that blurred my vision, but I don't think so. Worth skipping out on for sure. Hand crack through bulge, than stem over chasm to second wall and follow 5th class to top. Can rap Bloody Fingers straight down from the summit with a 70m if not a 60m as well if no one is on it or walk off the south. Dow
External LinksCity of Rocks National Reserve
Castle Rock State Park
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