both the rock and the glacier in good conditions
Very good conditions, in a second sunny day after some heavy snow. Team of 2+2. No crowd on the route. Frühstückplatz reached after 3.5h, summit 8h later. Perfect view on the top.
It was my first AD tour. After a course me and my two buddies decided to climb the Studlgrat. We were tensioned, because of the time schedule, but made it in less than 4 hours from the Stüdlhütte:-)
climbed it last sunday. too many people, especially while descending the normal route...and too many guided people who probably never used an ice axe before in their lives. the route is nice, but i did not like all the fixed rope and stuff that turn it into kinda via ferrata. There are a lot of good placements and horns to sling, the whole route would be much more of an experience without ropes, bolts and pieces of steel. But thats just my personal opinion. Climbed up to the "Frühstücksplatz" unroped (fairly easy) then simulclimbing to the top.
Beautiful climb with nice rock.
Climbed with Wilco and local guide from Kals. This is the first alpine route that I have climbed twice now, as I climbed it before back in 2006. From what I remember of that climb, there were much less cables back then.
Nevertheless, this time it was made slightly more difficult by that little bit of fresh snow that had come down the previous evening. It wasn't much, but it sure made those small ledges trickier.
At the start of the climb, the weather was fine, but during the last hour to the summit, it quickly deteriorated. No views anymore. Still, I really like this climb!
Perfect weather we had to climb this beautiful route.
Our third attempt was finally the right one. Finding the right spot to get up the ridge can be a bit harder, but once you get on it, the route is very straightforward and great fun.
I climbed this grand arete with two friends. We had to wait often and long because there were very slow parties ahead. Returned to Stüdlhütte after 8.00 p.m.
Climbed with Radek (brade)- see post below. Fantastic route, solid rock, good snow conditions. Very overcrowded- about 50 people climbing the ridge, many parties shouldn't be there. Guides take people who even don't know how to use a rope- horrible (if they are above you try to overcome them as fast as possible!). Spent much time waiting. Very bad snow conditions in Glocknerteil (muddy- never been so filthy), to many people- very dangerous!
Overall- superb but the crowds kill the fun of climbing.
Climbed with Jck (Jacek) who was leading all the way up. Snow conditions on rout were almost perfect. No visibility on the summit. Stuedl Ridge was on my wish list for a long time. This classic rout is beautiful but overcrowded. We had company of 50(!!!) other people and guides during our climb. Recomend this rout as one of my best ever - it was pleasure.
Jck - Dziekuje za uratowanie zycia.
Jck - Thank you for saving my ass.
It snowed cca 2-3 days before. Stüdlhütte - Frühstückplatz 4h; Frühstückplatz - summit 7h. We climbed together with another pair; about 4/5 we lead the track in the now snow ;-)
Weather: absolutely clean blue sky, but little bit freezy (in the late afternoon I can't operate screw carabiners).