Sydpilaren, south pillar Mongejura

Sydpilaren, south pillar Mongejura

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 62.45887°N / 7.82677°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 24
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

One of the best traditional long routes in Scandinavia

Getting There

The route is on the south pillar of the mountain Mongejura on the north side of the Romsdalen walley app. 1 hour west from the city of DombÄs.
In the small village of Marstein, park west of the graveyard!!
Take the path from the parkinglot up to the start of the the climb, app. 1 hour.
Monge4

Route Description

Sydpillaren or South Pillar is a great and beautiful route with 24 pitches of traditional climbing. It has three pitches of Norwegian grade 6(5.9+).The rest is easier climbing on ledges, fourth classing and pitches up to Norwegian 6-(5.8).
There is not a single bolt on the route, but all the belays are good.
The rock is firm exept for the 22:e pitch, which is loose with blocks on top of eachother.



monge16

Essential Gear

Normal tradrack with cams up to 4"
mongejura3

External Links

For topo,info and more routes in Romsdalen(trollwall), buy the book "Klatring i Romsdalen"

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-3 of 3
hucksquaw

hucksquaw - Aug 7, 2015 6:31 am - Hasn't voted

Wrong grade conversions!

The grade conversions on this page are totaly wrong. Grade 6 norwegian is not 5.9+ and grade 6- norwegian is definitely not 5.8. Grade 6 is closer 5.10 climbing and 6- is closer to 5.10- (or maybe old school 5.9+). If 5.9 climbers go up on this route thinking it will be a cruiser, they are in for a surprise.

surfarn73

surfarn73 - Oct 31, 2015 7:44 pm - Hasn't voted

Right grades

Totallly wrong?? I say that its perfect for 5.9 climbers who is used to long routes. I climb 5.9 in the US at my best. I have climbed many Classic 5.9 routes in Yosemite and I say that its app. the same difficulty as norweigen grade 6. But its a long route and doing a grade 6 on ropelength 16 can be hard. I have climbed the route four times. Best regards surfarn 73

Borrows - Feb 1, 2019 8:36 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Right grades

Totaly correct Surfarn73.

Viewing: 1-3 of 3