T Haines, on the ridge. K...

T Haines, on the ridge. K Sorensen

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ben jammin

ben jammin - Feb 7, 2006 4:33 am - Voted 10/10

Belayed or moving together?

Wow - great photo!



I'm interested in the details: Were you belaying or moving together on this ridge? If belayed, what was the protection? What's the angle of the slope?



I'm constantly fascinated by the decision process on big alpine slopes: when to belay, when to move together unbelayed, when to untie and simu-solo, etc...



mtnman455

mtnman455 - Feb 7, 2006 5:26 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Belayed or moving together?

Well, we were moving together, but didn't use any pro. the slope was between 50 to 60 degrees. We heard accounts of people simul climbing using snow pickets, we also heard of people simul-soloing to the couloir. It just depends on what you are comfortable with and how much you trust your partner. The only reason we are tied together is because we just finished a rock section where we did need protection, and we didn't want to take the time to untie, but it probably would have been safer if we did untie since we didn't use any protection, but that is where trusting your partner comes in.

ben jammin

ben jammin - Feb 8, 2006 3:06 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Belayed or moving together?

It just depends on what you are comfortable with and how much you trust your partner.



Yep... that's the bottom line I guess.



The fascinating thing about alpine climbing is that you're constantly forced to make this kind of speed vs. safety trade-off based on a whole multitude of factors.

ktnbs

ktnbs - Feb 9, 2006 10:28 am - Hasn't voted

Very nice!

great shot....the white, the blue, the climber, the rope. all good

marlonwarren

marlonwarren - Jan 25, 2007 1:07 am - Voted 10/10

It Just gets better and better

Thanks for the technical details, above.

peace
marlon

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