OverviewThe Tällistock is a very impressive mountain high above the Gadmental / Gadmenvalley.
The Tällistock (2579 m / 8461 ft) is located in the eastern part of the Bernese Alps
. When driving along the Sustenpass road you can't miss the beautiful south face of the Tällistock. This south face is by far the most interesting side of the mountain. It contains very hard rock climbing routes and the first Via Ferrata of Switzerland (see the routes section for more information).
The Tällistock is actually part of the Gadmerflue, which is the mountain range north of the Gadmental. The Gadmerflue is known for it's rock faces. Names like Wendenstöcke, Reissend Nollen and Tällistock are well known by experienced rock climbers. Most routes on the Gadmerflue are pretty difficult. The steep limestone face offers some beautiful climbing for those who aren't afraid of heights.
Getting ThereGetting to the Tällihütte, which is the starting point for most of the routes.
By the road:
The Gadmental is along the Sustenpas road (N 11), which is located between Innertkirchen (westside) and Wassen (eastside). The Tällihütte can be reached in two ways. Either by driving a small paying road to Birchlaui or by taking the cable car from the Sustenpass road, which is in Furen (just east of Gadmen).
The nearest train station is in Innertkirchen. Take the train to Meiringen (SBB station) and transfer to the small MIB train (Meiringen - Innertkirchen Bahn). Then take the Postbus to the Sustenpas and get of in Furen (at the Cable car station).
Thanks to mountainmanjohn
for this part.
RoutesThere are several routes to the summit of the Tällistock. I will describe three of them, which I think, are most common and worth climbing. For other routes or more information I would advice to buy the SAC Guidebook, Urner Alpen 3, which gives you all the information about the climbs.
1. Normal route:
The Tällistock can be climbed from it's north side. Either by starting in Engstlen (1835 m) or at the Tällihütte by crossing the Sätteli pass (2119 m). See the SAC Guidebook for a more detailed description.
2. Via Ferrata:
The first Via Ferrata in Switzerland runs right through the Gadmerfluh (Tällistock South Face). With approximately 600 m in length, it is one of the longest and most spectacular Via Ferrata in Switzerland. Starting point for the climb is the Tällihütte, which is easily accessible by the Tälli funicular. The base station is located on the Sustenpass road. The difficulty level is D (Difficile : Difficult, for those accustomed to the sport).
The Inwyler-Bielmeier is real classic in the Bernese Alps. First climbed in 1960 by S. Inwyler and A. Bielmeier. Back then it was the first route through the south face of the Tällistock. The route has 14 pitches which are pretty sustained. The crux used to be a very exposed traverse, but after the rebolting in 1994 it is much easier. They only rebolted the belays. So, while climbing you'll still need to place your own gear. Despite the rebolting, the route requires a high level of confidence in steep, exposed faces. Difficulty: 6a+, 450 meters.
Maps and GuidebooksMap 1:25 000:
Map 1:50 000:
- SAC Map: 1210 Innertkirchen
- SAC Guidebook: Clubführer Urner Alpen Band 3 - Vom Susten zum Uristock, T.Fullin and A.Banholzer , ISBN: 978-3-85902-172-3
- Schweiz Plaisir Extrem Band 1 (for the south face climbs), Filidor, ISBN: 3-906087-27-1
- Schweiz Plaisir Ost (for the Via Ferrata), Filidor, ISBN: 3-906087-28-X
To order SAC Maps: www.toposhop.ch
To order SAC Guidebook: www.sac-cas.ch
To order Schweiz Plaisir Extrem / Ost: www.filidor.ch
External LinksTällihütte 1720 m
Isabelle & Christian Philipp
Phone (hut): +41 (0) 33 982 36 11
Other useful links:
WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research SLF
- Avalance Bulletin
- Detailed weather forecast by Meteoschweiz
- Railroad schedule
- Postbus schedule
- Tourist Office Gadmen