Geographical classification: Western Alps >> Pennine Alps > Weisshorn group
Tête de milon is a mountain very close to Bishorn and Weisshorn.The summit is on the glacier side and is like a small flat dom.
The mountain is a pyramid similar to of small Weisshorn with 3 faces and 3 ridges :
- The north-east face is full covered by Turtmann glacier with some seracs and crevasses
- The west face is 900m high with 500m of steep rock.
- The south rocky face is 500m high over Weisshorn Glacier
The North ridge is 1,5km long for a difference in height of 450hm.
The east ridge is quite not descending and connected to Weisshorn north ridge, at the point 4200m.
The southern ridge is like a spur connected at the end to col de Milon and Pointe de l'Ar Pitetta.
Only the easy normal route on Turtmann glacier and the SW ridge are ofen climbed.
normal route from tracuit hut: F, 1h30mn.
All the short route has to be done on the glacier avoiding big crevasses
and serac exposure.
Take Bishorn trail for 500m on the glacier, and
Take the highest part of the glacier for 1km to the direction to Tête de Milon summit - quite south direction.
For the last part of the ascent -last 300m- , try to stay paralell to the N ridge.
Milon ridge route from Ar Pitetta hut: AD+, 3h in cluding 30mn from the hut to Milon pass.
The first not steep part of Milon ridge is made of poor rock. It's better to take it's north side.
The great ascent begins on the steep SW rigde with slabs and gendarme of better gneiss (III, IV) and is finishing with a more easy climb before the summit.
by car (highly recommended)
Rhone valley >> Sierre >> Val d'Anniviers road >> Zinal at the end of the road.
For those coming from oversea :
Fly to Geneva international airport. Car or train to Sierre (Rhone valley) , followed by Post bus to Zinal . Car highly recommended but not mandatory if you don't move at any hour.