Tête du Rouget

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 44.95520°N / 6.26490°E
Additional Information Elevation: 11213 ft / 3418 m
Sign the Climber's Log


Geographical classification: Western Alps > High Dauphiné Alps > Soreiller group

This is with Pic Gény, one of the two important summits of the secondary south branch of Soreiller Group.
Tête du rouget is separated from Pic Gény by Brèche du rouget 3321m.
The name Tête du rouget comes from the red color of the granite the mountain is made of on its southern face.
This red rock is excellent for climbing.
The mountain is visible from Vénéon Valley, from La Bérarde and aligned with high Vénéon valley, so it's possible to see it from far away.

The west face is steep and 300m high, the southern face is steep too, 470m high, with many eperons and secondary summits: grand gendarme du Rouget, Tour Jaune, and Tours du Rouget. The S face is 1800m over Vénéon valley.
The NE side is a wilde face over Arena Glacier. The east ridge of the mountain is long (2km) and connected to smaller summits, Tête Blanche and Tête de la Maye.

Getting There

by car (highly recommended)

Grenoble >> Bourg d'Oisans >> Saint Christophe >> Les Etages >> Soreiller

For those coming from oversea :
Fly to Lyon international airport. Car (recommended) or train to Grenoble, followed by bus to Bourg d'Oisans and smaller bus up the narrow road to Saint Christophe en Oisans and La Bérarde (3 per day in July/Aug Grenoble to La Bérarde) . Car highly recommended !

Routes overview

normal route on N ridge F, 1h30 to Rouget pass and 1h on the N ridge, this is the descend route too.

NW ridge AD IV+, 4h ascent including 1h approach from Soreiller hut.

W face:

Voie de Gauche D+
Version Originale D+ V
Voie Parat D+ 4h ascent including 1h approach from Soreiller hut.
Voie diagonale D-
Voie de Droite D IV+ 4h ascent including 1h approach from Soreiller hut.

SW :

Chèze pilier and SW ridge D- V
Voie des Plaques PD+ V 4h ascent including 1h 30 approach from Soreiller hut.

4h ascent including 1h approach from Soreiller hut.

S face:
approach from Soreiller hut, or from La Bérarde or Bivouak.

Direct route TD VIa 7h ascent including 2h approach.
Trésor de Rackam le Rouge ED-
Titine TD VIa 8h ascent including 2h approach.

S face:

Eperon Girod TD- V+
Pilier Gauche de la Sérénité TD+
Pilier de la Sérénité TD V+
Voie de la Console TD V+.
Voie du Babouné TD+ VIb
Eperon de la Petite Claire TD- V+

Tour Murielle:

Voie du Soliloque D+ V+
Pilier du Tarin Rouge D+ V

Contrefort Sud:

Petite Sandie ridge D+ V
Les Etages ridge D V

Grand Gendarme :

Tour Jaune ridge TD V+.
Orient Express ridge D+ V+


Purtscheller route F 6h, but mostly used to descent
East ridge route from Tête de la Maye F 7h, but long.

Red Tape

No Red Tape except Ecrins National Park rules (no dog, no camping, only bivouak allowed, no fire, no MTB, no destruction of wilderness)
Refer to Ecrins National park rules.

When To Climb

Summer period is the prefered period for mountaineering.


Tél : 04 76 80 23 99
Fax : 04 76 95 47 97
Email : rafting.veneon@wanadoo.fr
Site internet: www.rafting-veneon.com

Tél : 04 76 79 20 45
Fax : 04 7679 06 97
Email :
Site internet: www.berarde.com


Soreiller hut STD 2720 m

Soreillerhut route on Oisans.com

Mountain Conditions

Briançon meteo forecast 7 days
Bourg d'Oisans meteo forecast 7 days
Grenoble meteo forecast 7 days

Maps and Books

IGN Map: 3436 ET

Têtes du Rouget routes are described on this useful reference book:
Guide du Haut Dauphiné, tome 1 by GHM and François Labande, éditions de l'Envol
ISBN 2 909 907 155


Soreiller geology on Geo-Alp