Tête du Sanglier m. 2653
The Ubaye area (Alpes de Haute Provence) offers quite an interesting climbing ground, both on the limestone towers located near Barcelonnette, as Chapeau de Gendarme and Pain de Sucre, and on the quartzite peaks belonging to the Chambeyron Group and lying nearby the nice hamlet of Maljasset. Tête du Sanglier - meaning Wild Boar Head - is one of these latter, an imposing rocky castle overlooking the road joining St. Paul sur l’Ubaye and the small village of Maljasset (D25). The mountain main interests are both climbing and hiking. In fact the trail along the Normal route to the summit is a pleasant hike, giving an interesting experience inside the beautiful Vallon des Houerts and allowing to take some magnificent views over the beautiful surroundings. This peak shows an interesting climbing-ground on two main faces, where we can find some interesting climbing routes: the East face - overlooking the road D 25 running along the Ubaye Valley, nearby the small village of La Barge – has both equipped and trad routes, while the wild South Face – requiring a longer approach – has exclusively trad routes.
The starting point is the road D25 running in the Ubaye Valley, 500 meters befor getting the small hamlet of La Barge. The main towns in the area are Barcelonnette and Guillestre.
- From Barcelonnette follow the road D902 in the Ubaye Valley towards Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to La Barge (mt. 1877)- The trail to the East Face climbing routes starts 500 meters before getting to La Barge, while the trail both to the Normal Route and the South Face routes starts about 2 km. before La Barge.
- From Guillestre follow the road D902 rising to Col de Var, then descending to Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye; getting to Saint Paul, leave the road D902 and follow on the right the road D25 crossing Saint Paul, continuing up the valley and getting to the small hamlet of La Barge (mt. 1877)- The trail to the East Face climbing routes starts 500 meters before getting to La Barge, while the trail both to the Normal Route and the South Face routes starts about 2 km. before La Barge.
Tête du Sanglier Normal Route
Summit altitude: m. 2653
Altitude Gain: 800 m.
Starting point: Parking des Houerts
It’s possible to reach the top of Tete du Sanglier following its Normal Route, which rises along the first part of the Houerts Valley: a simply but satisfactory hike, getting to the summit and allowing some magnificent views. The starting point of this trail is situated along D25 about 2 kilometers before La Barge village (Parking des Houerts). From the little parking get back a bit along the road, reaching the starting point of Houerts Valley path (signposts). The well worn path rises with several hairpins overcoming the beginning slopes and entering the Houerts Valley. When the track is getting to a huge steep and red wall rising on your left-hand side – it’s the fine North-East face of Sommet Rouge (Red Summit) – you must leave the main path, turning to right and following a track rising steeply along stones and grassy slopes. A final scramble on an easy ridge heading left is leading to the summit.
Routes overview (French Scale)
- Approach from road D25
From left to right:
*** Les Jardins d’Amandine TD, 6a max, 5c obbl. 350 m
*** Les Diedres D+, 5, 350 m
*** Au delà du Délire (Beyond the delirium) D+, 5, 160 m
*** A l’ombre du Mélèze en fleur (Below the larchs in bloom) TD+, 6b max, 6a obbl., 160 m
*** Fleurs de Rocaille (Flowers of the Stones) TD-, 6a max, 5+ obbl. , 150 m
– Approach from Houerts Valley
From left to right:
*** Les Emabarres D, 5a obbl., 350 m
*** A la Recherce du Thon Perdu TD-, 5+ obbl., 350 m
*** Les Retrouvailles D+, 5+ obbl., 350 m
*** L’Innomeé TD, 5 obbl., 350 m
*** Isabellarium TD, 5+ obbl., 350 m
No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking
There is a campsite open in summer in Saint Paul sur l'Ubaye. In the hamlet of Maljasset in Maljasset Hut (French Alpine Club - CAF, 1905 m), 60 beds, always open, phone 04 92 84 34 04 or in Gite d’etape “La Cure”. In Pont d’Estreche Maison d’hotes “La Posada”.
Best season goes from June to October
"La grimpe en Ubaye" by Colin Michel CAF
“Alpes du Sud, Provence" by Hervé Galley - Editions Olizane - Geneve (Switzerland)
Map IGN TOP 25 3538 ET, Aiguilles de Chambeyron