In the morning of June 11, 2011,Penelope May (now May-Smrz) and I (Alois Smrz) scrambled up the North-East Rib (5.2 or 5.3) of Tahquitz Rock for about the zillioneth time to attend a wedding on top, our own. We met on top of Tahquitz Rock in 1999, have lived in Idyllwild some 10 years now, so the summit was a natural place to get married. 49 fellow climbers, hikers and neighbors joined us on top. Wonderful day, loving friends, unforgetable...
Ascended the Southwest Gully to the summit only to arrive in the middle of a wedding ceremony! Hung around for a few minutes then headed back down the same way. Climbed Sam Fink Peak in the morning before this and then climbed Suicide Rock afterwards.
Tried the traverse from Tahquitz a few years back and came up empty. Took the W/SW gully route this time and had a very enjoyable climb. Had the summit to myself for about 20 mins. There are some fun class 3 slabs also if you stick closer to the rock.
Via Trough, Fingertip Traverse. Many more to come.
Fun route, lots of variation.
Fingertrip (5.7, 4 pitches) -- June 5, 2010 -- Mary and I climbed this fun route as an introduction to the area. Both of us were out of shape from several weeks of no climbing, so the approach was a good wake-up call. Didn't have to wait in line and followed another party down the Friction Descent. We spend the rest of the afternoon hanging out in Idyllwild.
The Long Climb w/ Wong Climb var (5.8, 6 pitches) -- June 6, 2010 -- Mary and I did this climb on Day 2 of our weekend trip to Tahquitz. Really amazing climbing on the first two pitches and something challenging on every pitch. A more physical day than expected and it was quite hot, so I could have benefited from more water. Looking forward to going back in the fall.
Whodunit (5.9, 8 pitches) -- October 3, 2010 -- Finished a night shift and slept in the car while Mary drove most of the way. Got to bed early and got an early start the next morning. We were first on the route, but were soon passed by a group of locals who were quickly out of sight. First pitch is intimidating, but the rest of the route was cruiser. Great climbing the whole way. I especially liked the chimney pitch and the roof at the top. Spent the night in Idyllwild and then drove back to Fresno in the morning.
Coffin Nail (5.8, 4 pitches) -- April 29, 2011 -- Did this one with Mary to start the granite climbing season. We continued to the top via Jensen's Jaunt for a nice short day. Challenging climbing on the crux pitch.
Sahara Terror (5.7, 8 pitches) -- June 22, 2011 -- Good long route with lots of interesting climbing. Wish it had been in the shade.
El Whampo (5.7, 6 pitches) -- June 23, 2011 -- Great crack on P2 and an interesting P3 as well.
Dave's Deviation-Jam Crack-Piton Pooper-Upper Royals Link-up (5.9, 5 pitches) -- July 2, 2011 -- Did this awesome link-up with Mary on a quick trip to Tahquitz before heading to Orange County to visit family. The finger crack on P1 is awesome and I really enjoyed Piton Pooper as well. A bit of scary slab to connect the route. The Upper Royals Arch exit was exciting but a bit awkward in spots. Good way to avoid the crowds on a Saturday.
Traitor Horn (5.8, 4 pitches) -- July 27, 2011 -- Pretty intimidating getting off the horn, until I figured out the right way.
I went with my brother up the 3rd class route to the summit. Just to look at so many spectacular routes on such awesome granite.
This was my first time at Tahquitz and my first multi-pitched climb. What a thrill it was. Felt like I was in a totally different world.
I don't see it on the route list. Is it called something else now, or is it just too easy to bother with? Anyway, it was my first big lead. Easy but long and high. Pretty thrilling for a youngster. Dragged my friend Ed up once and have great pix of him high up on the rock. He died too young, so I treasure those pix and the time we had on this beautiful rock.
Climbed with Steve and Laura. We're not actually sure which route we were on, but it was enjoyable and there seemed to be some nice 5.7- 5.8 moves, so I have no complaints :)
Steve led all 6 pitches. Caught in a thunderstorm on the final 5.3 pitch, but it cleared up after a half hour. Full value !
I started rock climbing on Tahquitz in 1973. Great rock type for climbing. Worse experience was being in the face during the great 1974 San Jacinto fire. Smoke limited visibility to a few feet.
With Tom Becht, below. Great day o' fun. Trip Report
Wrong gully (but still lots of fun) up to the saddle for the first of 7 peaks today. Took twice as long as planned but that would continue throughout the day. Not the easy bumps that we envisioned. With Bob Burd
Great day. Love the summit register.
Climbed this route with Charles (travelin_light). It was my first multipitch and very fun. Followed pitches 1-4 and lead the 5 pitch.
Have been several times and will keep going. One of my favorite places that I have ever climbed at.
Vicki and me climbed Traitor Horn on Sunday August 31st 1008. Very fun climb, with a exposed crux, 5.8, in the "real" horn.
Next day we climbed El Wampo. Another nice climb, with a fun 5.7 crack in the 2nd pitch.
many great climbs, many to go.
Best place for multi-pitch trad climbing in So Cal.
Love this place. I WILL RETURN