Followed Alex A. (alexamies) up this great classic route. Great lead Alex!
Climbed with Damien in six pitches. A great route, fairly sustained for the most part at 5.7 or 5.8 with a few 5.9 moves. It was fun all the way, except for the 5th pitch when I thought it looked easier to go out onto the arete on jugs and the jugs ran out and I found myself on manky, unprotectable face terrain. I practically jumped back into the dihedral first chance I got--which took much longer than I would have liked and involved some touchy backcleaning. The only other negative was the fact that we were in shade the whole five or so hours it took to do the climb and froze our asses off. Pulling the roof out of the chimney (5.9) was probably the technical crux--and beware of a big loose block where your foot wants to go.
Climbing on this rock since the 70's, in all conditions.
Road trip and good times with Brutus. Not sure which way to go on 1st pitch. Went out under the arch on right side. Fun climbing.
Climbed as second (coming back in shape for the real rock after 1.5 year break). Thisn is the superb moderate route with excellent protection. Traverese on the second pitch can be problem as it requries the nice balance. We made it in 4 pitches. The 3rd pitch was made from the tree to huge ledge where multiple routes (e.g. Angel's Fright) converge. The 4th pitch on the slab looks like scary until you realize its all mental, not a technical challenge.
The first route I did here was Fingertip traverse, in Jan 1981. Since then I have climbed here (and over at the neighboring Suicide Rock) more times than I can recall. My personal best at these - my local summer crags - was a redpoint lead of the Pirate in 1994. Some favorites: Magical Mystery Tour, Green Arch, Vampire, Flower of High Rank, Iron Cross.
I learned to rock climb here under the tutelage of Yosemite veterans Dick Sykes and Don Lauria. What a place! I never get tired of it.
Wonderful day at the Rock; excellent climb, I can see why it's a classic; thanks Steve for leading on my intro to Tahquitz; also climbed first pitch of FingerTrip. :-)
And continuing on ....
14may05 + ?? - AngelsFright (x2 times)
14may05 + 2011 - FingerTrip ('05 = p1 only)
11jun05 + 2009 - Larks Variation (combo of Hard&west) (x2 time)
apr06 - El Whampo
aug06 - TheTrough (used all passive pro; took a first-time-multipitch partner). (x? several more times)
oct06 - Left Ski Track (P1)
jun07 - Jensen's Jaunt
aug07 - Toe Grip(P1)/Fingertip combo
jun12 - White Maiden's
jun12 - Traitor Horn
First climbed at Tahquitz 30 years ago... but not since then, until last week. Finally reached the absolute summit via Whodunnit, a beautiful classic line on the North side, with old5ten, who hauled my old sorry tub of lard up the thing. descended via the north gully.
What an awesome climbing spot! No wonder the old school guys cut their teeth here. Beware of the ratings! Start on something easier than what you would normally climb. (Holy #@*& this is only supposed to be 5.8!!)
I grew up in Idyllwild, my parents and I would come up the mountain at least monthly for weekend trips. Through that experiance I took up rock climbing. I think that this is the best climbing in CA, it has an alpine setting, great granite, and multipitch routes.
Climbed here throughout the 1990's after I moved to the Coachella Valley for a teaching gig that lasted until 1998. Had many good adventures on many routes. Highlights include the time on The Illegimate when my partner Milt Jones took a whipper on the second pitch and dropped a cam. I heard the piece "whooosh" past me and for a second I thought it was Milt!!!! I also remember the time I took my wife, who is not a climber, on The Trough, after all it's only 5.0. The marriage almost didn't survive that one!
Even though I live 500 miles away I still get back there when I can.
I first visited Idyllwild in 1976 as a guest of the RCS of Sierra Club. Since then, I visited about twice a month in the summer months and couple times each year in winter. My notes indicate that I climbed some 113 routes listed in the various Guidebooks, what I didn't climb were the more dificult climbs. Most memorable are: "The Tripple 7" as it was known in the 70s and 80s (Jam Crack to Piton Pooper to Upper Royal Arch) which I climbed at least 17 times, Green Arch in 1980 on which Miguel Carmona took 45 foot leader fall, NE Face and The Larks in full winter ice conditions which brought me my 15 minutes of fame with most unusual photo of ice climbing in Southern California, Hoodenet with Robert Somoano where we cought up to a party mid way up the climb only to find Robert's teenage daughter and her girlfriend. She was sooo proud of her dad still flying up the rock after all these years. There are so many memories and so many friends. After visiting the place for almost 30 years I moved to Idyllwild 2 years ago and love it.
Deb and I climbed Sahara Terror's lower pitches and got off route after pitch 3. We found out later that we had got on part of 'The Souvenir' (.10d) and made things a bit more demanding. We eventually finished just right of 'The Error' and left of 'Lip Up Fatty' (5.8). We call our new variation 'The Sahara Error' (5.9+/.10a).
Did Whampo for the 2nd time, this time finishing out right as I had hoped to find an easy connect to the Lark Routes. Had a new partner whom I didn't want to drag over 5.9 ground so we found a bail out halfway to Lark Wall - up and over! Fun, easy variation, excellent weather, shady belay stances and cold beer in the cooler afterwards. Good day.
Spent a relaxed Saturday afternoon soloing 'The Trough' with Deb. Based on the overflowing Humber Park parking lot, we figured Tahquitz would be crawling with climbers; especially the easy to moderate routes. Amazingly, we had The Trough to ourselves; including the summit.....well, for about 15 minutes anyway. Finally found the summit register and signed it as well. Another wonderful memory collected....
Great partner and great conditions (until the clouds rolled in!). Deb and I met with Jack and Phil before ascending North Gully. We waded through waist to chest deep snow before finding better conditions higher up. Interesting "Hollywood" snow!....
Dave and I had a fantastic time swimming our way, in sometimes chest-deep snow, to the backside of Tahquitz Rock after watching Phil and Jack on their first pitch of ice climbing in the Northeast Buttress.
We would've made the summit of Tahquitz Rock if the visibilty had been more than 30' - darn it, just another 50' through the clouds!
From bottom to top, this was a wonderfully variant multi-pitch trip; hand jams on Dave's, pumping liebacks on Piton Pooper (that's a 5.8?!), anal constriction at the start of Upper Royal's when that barn-sized swarm of bees came up the Trough, and a bit of skittering on slab with weird pro on URA. All in all, an exhilerating, tiring climb.
Such nice granite, and a great place to learn route finding. Ended up taking lots of groups up Angels Fright. So many other routes yet to explore.