Route Climbed: Whodunit Date Climbed: Nov. 3, 2005
Climbed with Damien in six pitches. A great route, fairly sustained for the most part at 5.7 or 5.8 with a few 5.9 moves. It was fun all the way, except for the 5th pitch when I thought it looked easier to go out onto the arete on jugs and the jugs ran out and I found myself on manky, unprotectable face terrain. I practically jumped back into the dihedral first chance I got--which took much longer than I would have liked and involved some touchy backcleaning. The only other negative was the fact that we were in shade the whole five or so hours it took to do the climb and froze our asses off. Pulling the roof out of the chimney (5.9) was probably the technical crux--and beware of a big loose block where your foot wants to go.
Route Climbed: Fingertrip Date Climbed: June 18, 2005
Climbed as second (coming back in shape for the real rock after 1.5 year break). Thisn is the superb moderate route with excellent protection. Traverese on the second pitch can be problem as it requries the nice balance. We made it in 4 pitches. The 3rd pitch was made from the tree to huge ledge where multiple routes (e.g. Angel's Fright) converge. The 4th pitch on the slab looks like scary until you realize its all mental, not a technical challenge.
Route Climbed: Most of 'em Date Climbed: 1981 - Who can say?
The first route I did here was Fingertip traverse, in Jan 1981. Since then I have climbed here (and over at the neighboring Suicide Rock) more times than I can recall. My personal best at these - my local summer crags - was a redpoint lead of the Pirate in 1994. Some favorites: Magical Mystery Tour, Green Arch, Vampire, Flower of High Rank, Iron Cross.
Route Climbed: AngelsFright Date Climbed: 14may2005
Wonderful day at the Rock; excellent climb, I can see why it's a classic; thanks Steve for leading on my intro to Tahquitz; also climbed first pitch of FingerTrip. :-)
And continuing on ....
14may05 + ?? - AngelsFright (x2 times)
14may05 + 2011 - FingerTrip ('05 = p1 only)
11jun05 + 2009 - Larks Variation (combo of Hard&west) (x2 time)
apr06 - El Whampo
aug06 - TheTrough (used all passive pro; took a first-time-multipitch partner). (x? several more times)
oct06 - Left Ski Track (P1)
jun07 - Jensen's Jaunt
aug07 - Toe Grip(P1)/Fingertip combo
jun12 - White Maiden's
jun12 - Traitor Horn
Route Climbed: Whodunnit Date Climbed: May 16, 2005
First climbed at Tahquitz 30 years ago... but not since then, until last week. Finally reached the absolute summit via Whodunnit, a beautiful classic line on the North side, with old5ten, who hauled my old sorry tub of lard up the thing. descended via the north gully.
Route Climbed: The Trough, White Maidens Walkway, Fingertip Traverse, Angel's Fright, Left Ski Track, Fingertrip, Jensen's Jaunt Date Climbed: Every Summer!
What an awesome climbing spot! No wonder the old school guys cut their teeth here. Beware of the ratings! Start on something easier than what you would normally climb. (Holy #@*& this is only supposed to be 5.8!!)
Route Climbed: Many Routes Date Climbed: Many Times
I grew up in Idyllwild, my parents and I would come up the mountain at least monthly for weekend trips. Through that experiance I took up rock climbing. I think that this is the best climbing in CA, it has an alpine setting, great granite, and multipitch routes.
Climbed here throughout the 1990's after I moved to the Coachella Valley for a teaching gig that lasted until 1998. Had many good adventures on many routes. Highlights include the time on The Illegimate when my partner Milt Jones took a whipper on the second pitch and dropped a cam. I heard the piece "whooosh" past me and for a second I thought it was Milt!!!! I also remember the time I took my wife, who is not a climber, on The Trough, after all it's only 5.0. The marriage almost didn't survive that one!
Even though I live 500 miles away I still get back there when I can.
Route Climbed: 113 routes on Tahquitz and Suicide 5.0 to 5.11 Date Climbed: April 1976 to November 2004
I first visited Idyllwild in 1976 as a guest of the RCS of Sierra Club. Since then, I visited about twice a month in the summer months and couple times each year in winter. My notes indicate that I climbed some 113 routes listed in the various Guidebooks, what I didn't climb were the more dificult climbs. Most memorable are: "The Tripple 7" as it was known in the 70s and 80s (Jam Crack to Piton Pooper to Upper Royal Arch) which I climbed at least 17 times, Green Arch in 1980 on which Miguel Carmona took 45 foot leader fall, NE Face and The Larks in full winter ice conditions which brought me my 15 minutes of fame with most unusual photo of ice climbing in Southern California, Hoodenet with Robert Somoano where we cought up to a party mid way up the climb only to find Robert's teenage daughter and her girlfriend. She was sooo proud of her dad still flying up the rock after all these years. There are so many memories and so many friends. After visiting the place for almost 30 years I moved to Idyllwild 2 years ago and love it.
Route Climbed: 'Sahara Terror' (5.7), (variation: 'The Sahara Error' (5.9+) Date Climbed: 08 Aug 2004
Deb and I climbed Sahara Terror's lower pitches and got off route after pitch 3. We found out later that we had got on part of 'The Souvenir' (.10d) and made things a bit more demanding. We eventually finished just right of 'The Error' and left of 'Lip Up Fatty' (5.8). We call our new variation 'The Sahara Error' (5.9+/.10a).
Did Whampo for the 2nd time, this time finishing out right as I had hoped to find an easy connect to the Lark Routes. Had a new partner whom I didn't want to drag over 5.9 ground so we found a bail out halfway to Lark Wall - up and over! Fun, easy variation, excellent weather, shady belay stances and cold beer in the cooler afterwards. Good day.
Route Climbed: The Trough, (5.4) Date Climbed: 12 June 2004
Spent a relaxed Saturday afternoon soloing 'The Trough' with Deb. Based on the overflowing Humber Park parking lot, we figured Tahquitz would be crawling with climbers; especially the easy to moderate routes. Amazingly, we had The Trough to ourselves; including the summit.....well, for about 15 minutes anyway. Finally found the summit register and signed it as well. Another wonderful memory collected....
Route Climbed: North Gully Date Climbed: 28 Feb 2004
Great partner and great conditions (until the clouds rolled in!). Deb and I met with Jack and Phil before ascending North Gully. We waded through waist to chest deep snow before finding better conditions higher up. Interesting "Hollywood" snow!....
Route Climbed: North Gulley Descent Date Climbed: 28 February 2004
Dave and I had a fantastic time swimming our way, in sometimes chest-deep snow, to the backside of Tahquitz Rock after watching Phil and Jack on their first pitch of ice climbing in the Northeast Buttress.
We would've made the summit of Tahquitz Rock if the visibilty had been more than 30' - darn it, just another 50' through the clouds!
Route Climbed: Dave's Deviation 5.9, Piton Pooper 5.8, Upper Royal's Arch 5.8 Date Climbed: September 2003
From bottom to top, this was a wonderfully variant multi-pitch trip; hand jams on Dave's, pumping liebacks on Piton Pooper (that's a 5.8?!), anal constriction at the start of Upper Royal's when that barn-sized swarm of bees came up the Trough, and a bit of skittering on slab with weird pro on URA. All in all, an exhilerating, tiring climb.
myles - Nov 11, 2005 3:44 pm
Route Climbed: Piton Pooper Date Climbed: July 1996One and only trip there -- was sorry we had only half a day.
uwjennie - Nov 11, 2005 12:39 am
Route Climbed: Open Book Date Climbed: Nov. 6, 2005Followed Alex A. (alexamies) up this great classic route. Great lead Alex!
MichaelJ - Nov 6, 2005 6:54 pm
Route Climbed: Whodunit Date Climbed: Nov. 3, 2005Climbed with Damien in six pitches. A great route, fairly sustained for the most part at 5.7 or 5.8 with a few 5.9 moves. It was fun all the way, except for the 5th pitch when I thought it looked easier to go out onto the arete on jugs and the jugs ran out and I found myself on manky, unprotectable face terrain. I practically jumped back into the dihedral first chance I got--which took much longer than I would have liked and involved some touchy backcleaning. The only other negative was the fact that we were in shade the whole five or so hours it took to do the climb and froze our asses off. Pulling the roof out of the chimney (5.9) was probably the technical crux--and beware of a big loose block where your foot wants to go.
tdoughty - Oct 17, 2005 5:18 pm
Route Climbed: Various Date Climbed: ManyClimbing on this rock since the 70's, in all conditions.
old5ten - Aug 15, 2005 2:34 am
Route Climbed: Whodunit Date Climbed: May 16th, 2005Road trip and good times with Brutus. Not sure which way to go on 1st pitch. Went out under the arch on right side. Fun climbing.
Rinat Shagisultanov - Jun 19, 2005 1:36 am
Route Climbed: Fingertrip Date Climbed: June 18, 2005Climbed as second (coming back in shape for the real rock after 1.5 year break). Thisn is the superb moderate route with excellent protection. Traverese on the second pitch can be problem as it requries the nice balance. We made it in 4 pitches. The 3rd pitch was made from the tree to huge ledge where multiple routes (e.g. Angel's Fright) converge. The 4th pitch on the slab looks like scary until you realize its all mental, not a technical challenge.
ksolem - Jun 16, 2005 2:08 pm
Route Climbed: Most of 'em Date Climbed: 1981 - Who can say?The first route I did here was Fingertip traverse, in Jan 1981. Since then I have climbed here (and over at the neighboring Suicide Rock) more times than I can recall. My personal best at these - my local summer crags - was a redpoint lead of the Pirate in 1994. Some favorites: Magical Mystery Tour, Green Arch, Vampire, Flower of High Rank, Iron Cross.
Steve Larson - Jun 1, 2005 8:23 pm
Route Climbed: Too many to remember them all... Date Climbed: July, 1977 - April 2005I learned to rock climb here under the tutelage of Yosemite veterans Dick Sykes and Don Lauria. What a place! I never get tired of it.
ChuckO - May 25, 2005 4:35 pm
Route Climbed: AngelsFright Date Climbed: 14may2005Wonderful day at the Rock; excellent climb, I can see why it's a classic; thanks Steve for leading on my intro to Tahquitz; also climbed first pitch of FingerTrip. :-)
And continuing on ....
14may05 + ?? - AngelsFright (x2 times)
14may05 + 2011 - FingerTrip ('05 = p1 only)
11jun05 + 2009 - Larks Variation (combo of Hard&west) (x2 time)
apr06 - El Whampo
aug06 - TheTrough (used all passive pro; took a first-time-multipitch partner). (x? several more times)
oct06 - Left Ski Track (P1)
jun07 - Jensen's Jaunt
aug07 - Toe Grip(P1)/Fingertip combo
jun12 - White Maiden's
jun12 - Traitor Horn
brutus of wyde - May 18, 2005 5:16 pm
Route Climbed: Whodunnit Date Climbed: May 16, 2005First climbed at Tahquitz 30 years ago... but not since then, until last week. Finally reached the absolute summit via Whodunnit, a beautiful classic line on the North side, with old5ten, who hauled my old sorry tub of lard up the thing. descended via the north gully.
atthecrux - Apr 17, 2005 4:24 am
Route Climbed: The Trough, White Maidens Walkway, Fingertip Traverse, Angel's Fright, Left Ski Track, Fingertrip, Jensen's Jaunt Date Climbed: Every Summer!What an awesome climbing spot! No wonder the old school guys cut their teeth here. Beware of the ratings! Start on something easier than what you would normally climb. (Holy #@*& this is only supposed to be 5.8!!)
Freddys27 - Mar 3, 2005 12:43 pm
Route Climbed: Many Routes Date Climbed: Many TimesI grew up in Idyllwild, my parents and I would come up the mountain at least monthly for weekend trips. Through that experiance I took up rock climbing. I think that this is the best climbing in CA, it has an alpine setting, great granite, and multipitch routes.
jtree - Feb 27, 2005 12:41 pm
Route Climbed: various Date Climbed: 1990-presentClimbed here throughout the 1990's after I moved to the Coachella Valley for a teaching gig that lasted until 1998. Had many good adventures on many routes. Highlights include the time on The Illegimate when my partner Milt Jones took a whipper on the second pitch and dropped a cam. I heard the piece "whooosh" past me and for a second I thought it was Milt!!!! I also remember the time I took my wife, who is not a climber, on The Trough, after all it's only 5.0. The marriage almost didn't survive that one!
Even though I live 500 miles away I still get back there when I can.
asmrz - Nov 23, 2004 12:49 pm
Route Climbed: 113 routes on Tahquitz and Suicide 5.0 to 5.11 Date Climbed: April 1976 to November 2004I first visited Idyllwild in 1976 as a guest of the RCS of Sierra Club. Since then, I visited about twice a month in the summer months and couple times each year in winter. My notes indicate that I climbed some 113 routes listed in the various Guidebooks, what I didn't climb were the more dificult climbs. Most memorable are: "The Tripple 7" as it was known in the 70s and 80s (Jam Crack to Piton Pooper to Upper Royal Arch) which I climbed at least 17 times, Green Arch in 1980 on which Miguel Carmona took 45 foot leader fall, NE Face and The Larks in full winter ice conditions which brought me my 15 minutes of fame with most unusual photo of ice climbing in Southern California, Hoodenet with Robert Somoano where we cought up to a party mid way up the climb only to find Robert's teenage daughter and her girlfriend. She was sooo proud of her dad still flying up the rock after all these years. There are so many memories and so many friends. After visiting the place for almost 30 years I moved to Idyllwild 2 years ago and love it.
Dave Daly - Aug 9, 2004 4:50 pm
Route Climbed: 'Sahara Terror' (5.7), (variation: 'The Sahara Error' (5.9+) Date Climbed: 08 Aug 2004Deb and I climbed Sahara Terror's lower pitches and got off route after pitch 3. We found out later that we had got on part of 'The Souvenir' (.10d) and made things a bit more demanding. We eventually finished just right of 'The Error' and left of 'Lip Up Fatty' (5.8). We call our new variation 'The Sahara Error' (5.9+/.10a).
Shano - Aug 9, 2004 4:15 pm
Route Climbed: El Whampo Date Climbed: 07Aug 2004Did Whampo for the 2nd time, this time finishing out right as I had hoped to find an easy connect to the Lark Routes. Had a new partner whom I didn't want to drag over 5.9 ground so we found a bail out halfway to Lark Wall - up and over! Fun, easy variation, excellent weather, shady belay stances and cold beer in the cooler afterwards. Good day.
-s
Dave Daly - Jun 14, 2004 10:53 am
Route Climbed: The Trough, (5.4) Date Climbed: 12 June 2004Spent a relaxed Saturday afternoon soloing 'The Trough' with Deb. Based on the overflowing Humber Park parking lot, we figured Tahquitz would be crawling with climbers; especially the easy to moderate routes. Amazingly, we had The Trough to ourselves; including the summit.....well, for about 15 minutes anyway. Finally found the summit register and signed it as well. Another wonderful memory collected....
Dave Daly - Mar 1, 2004 10:00 am
Route Climbed: North Gully Date Climbed: 28 Feb 2004Great partner and great conditions (until the clouds rolled in!). Deb and I met with Jack and Phil before ascending North Gully. We waded through waist to chest deep snow before finding better conditions higher up. Interesting "Hollywood" snow!....
Deb - Feb 29, 2004 11:17 pm
Route Climbed: North Gulley Descent Date Climbed: 28 February 2004Dave and I had a fantastic time swimming our way, in sometimes chest-deep snow, to the backside of Tahquitz Rock after watching Phil and Jack on their first pitch of ice climbing in the Northeast Buttress.
We would've made the summit of Tahquitz Rock if the visibilty had been more than 30' - darn it, just another 50' through the clouds!
Deb - Jan 25, 2004 10:40 pm
Route Climbed: Dave's Deviation 5.9, Piton Pooper 5.8, Upper Royal's Arch 5.8 Date Climbed: September 2003From bottom to top, this was a wonderfully variant multi-pitch trip; hand jams on Dave's, pumping liebacks on Piton Pooper (that's a 5.8?!), anal constriction at the start of Upper Royal's when that barn-sized swarm of bees came up the Trough, and a bit of skittering on slab with weird pro on URA. All in all, an exhilerating, tiring climb.