In a place known for excellent rock routes on major summits, here is a hidden gem of a rock climb on a not so major peak. The approach is a little longer than the great rock climbs in Death Canyon, but the setting and lack of crowds make Taminah Arete a rare treat in Teton Country.
Follow the Getting There
and Approaching Taminah Arete
section of the Matternought Peak page.
The climbing starts on an orange wall with a thin crack in a short dihedral.
Pitch 1: 5.9 - Start up the left facing corner. Stem past the thin crack (5.9, very small nuts)to a face with several thin cracks to a belay.
Pitch 2: 5.5 - Climb along the ridge crest over easy terrain.
Pitch 3: 5.6 - Quartz Crystal Pitch
- Climb straight up the excellent face, using large crystals and cracks for 155 feet.
Pitch 4: 5.7 - This pitch starts with an unprotected face climb (5.7) remeniscent of the Golden Staircase on Upper Exum. Make a few friction moves (20 feet) to the top of a small tower. Either belay here, or downclimb and traverse a suspended chockstone and continue up the ridge on easy terrain (4th class).
Pitch 5: 4th class - Continue up the ridge to the next step.
Pitch 6: 5.6 - Contiue up the face, generally heading toward a small pillar. The left side of the pillar is a 5.9 chimney, the right is easier (5.6), but a bit loose. Stay near the ridge crest to minimize routefinding difficulties.
Pitch 7: 5.5 - The upper part of the ridge starts to broaden out and the rock quality degrades somewhat. Find your way up the loose face (5.5)to a belay.
Pitch 8: 4th class - Scramble up the last few steps of technical terrain. If you do not plan to summit, trend right toward the East Ridge once the ridge starts to flatten out. If you do summit, it is a good idea to leave most of your things here and retrace the last 300-400 feet of scrambling before beginning the descent.
Bring a standard selection of cams, nuts and runners. A few small nuts (#2-4)help on the crux of the first pitch. A selection of shoulder length slings will help, as this climb wanders along a ridge for some time. Two ropes will minimize the danger on the descent.
The descent from this climb is scary. Aside from the 20 foot unprotected face, this is probably the mental crux of the day. DO NOT
let your guard down after you complete this climb, nor after you complete the rappel. Wet slabs, steep and exposed downclimbing, and lots of snow early season make this a mountain adventure more than a pure rock climb. Apparently there are bailouts on the east of the Arete that will lead to the base of the route. This climber has no knowledge of those. BE CAREFUL!
You will not see a bunch of people in Avalanche Canyon.