Taygetos (Profitis Ilias)

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Taygetos
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- Pindos
Taygetos (Profitis Ilias)

Page Type:	Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon:	36.95281°N / 22.34996°E
GPX File:	Download GPX » View Route on Map
County:	Lakonia
Activities:	Hiking, Mountaineering
Season:	Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Elevation:	7890 ft / 2405 m
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Overview

Summit pyramid of Profitis Ilias (2,405m)

Profitis Ilias (2,405m) [“Προφητης Ηλιας”] is the highest summit of the Taygetos (“Ταυγετος”) mountain, part of Pindos, making it the highest summit in the entire Peloponnese and the 12^th highest in Greece. The summit is named after the homonymous chapel built on it, using local Platy Limestone fragments. It is one of the most storied and historically significant mountains in Greece, famously described by Strabo as “mountain high, and upright” (“όρος υψηλόν τε και όρθιον”). It runs 115km from North to South, with Profitis Ilias (2,405m) being perched at the southernmost point of the main ridge, which is called “Πενταδάκτυλος” (translated as “five fingers”) due to its distinct summits. The mountain itself is dominated by water, with a number of large gorges and canyons carved in its foothills. Due to its steepness, abundance of water, and difficult access, it separates human activity in the Mani Peninsula ("Μανή") while also being home to thousands of species, out of which are 33 endemic plants, and being classfied as an Important Area for Birds in Greece (GR120).

This page is dedicated to the summit of Profitis Ilias (2,405m), for a more detailed description of the mountain range, please see the Taygetos Mountain Range page.

History & Area Guide

The name "Taygetos", according to Greco-Roman geographer Pausanias, is derived from ancient Hellenistic myth, and the story of "Taygeti" who was one of the Atlantides - water Nymphs -, who after being taken by Zeus would end her life by throwing herself off one of the mountains cliffs. Hesychius of Alexandria claimed that the name "Taygetos" comes from the ancient root "ταΰς" meaning "large". This may be backed by Homer's naming of the mountain as "περιμήκειον" - meaning "that which has a large perimeter". Finally Virgil also refers to the mountain as "Taygetos". It would later be reffered to as "Πενταδάκτυλος" during the Byzantines, and then "Αγιολιάς ο μακρυνός" until retaking its ancient name during the modern Greek state.

Ruins of Sparta's ancient theater - Profitis Ilias (2,405m) in view

The ancient Greek city-state of Sparta ("Σπάρτη") - and the modern city too! - can be found East of the mountain's main section and are clearly visible from the summit. The mountain, and especially its Eastern slopes were part of Spartan life and legend. Most notably, is the use of "Keadas" ("Καιάδας"), a karstic cave system to dispose of both babies born with disabilities, and of prisoners of war. It is said that there the Spartans left the dead body of their king Pausanias the Regent (b. 479BC), after he was convicted of treason. Today, Keadas can still be found 10km outside of Sparta, while archeological excavations have in fact confirmed the use of the cave to kill prisoners and in some cases children.

Located directly on the Eastern flanks of Taygetos, is the UNESCO World Heritage site of Mystras ("Μυστράς"), the fortified city built by Frank William II of Villehardouin (b. 1211) in 1248 AD. Reign of his new castle town would however be short-lived as in 1259, he and his fortress were captured by the Byzantine emperor Michael VIII Palaiologos (b. 1224) following the Battle of Pelagonia. Villehardouin would ceede his castle holdings including Mystras in exchange for his freedom, and from 1262, the fortified city became a seat of governance for the Byzantines. Between 1350-1450 Mystras would experience a golden age, being described as the last bastion of Byzantine culture and teachings, thus, attracting skilled artists and great thinkers. During this time the Neoplatonist philosopher Gemistos Plethon (b. 1357) lived in Mystras, until his death 1452; Plethon had accompanied emperor John VII Palaiologos (b. 1392) to Florence in 1439. On the 30th of May 1460, Mystras was surrendered to the Ottomans.

On the Western side of Taygetos, where its steep foothills meet the Messinian Gulf, lay several traditional villages at the crossroads between sea and mountain culture. Cheif among them, and the regional governance seat of Messinian Mani, is Kardamyli ("Καρδαμύλη"). The village was mentioned by Homer in the Illiad as one of the villages which Agamemnon offered to Achilles as a condition to rejoin the Trojan War; it retains the same name today. Over time the settlement was mostly built by Venetian and Frankish influence as evident in the architecture of "Upper Kardamyli" (the old town). Due to it being one of the oldest settlements in the region, residents can often trace their lineage back to Byzantine times. In the 20th century, the village became popular among British authors, with Bruce Chatwin having his ashes scattered nearby in 1989, while Patrick Leigh Fermor and his wife made it their home during their later years. The village is also known for its excellent vistas towards the summit of Profitis Ilias (2,405m).

Getting There

As the general trailhead of reference, the EOS Spartis Refuge at 1,550m is used. While trails starting at other areas and passing via other summits can also be followed to the summit of Profitis Ilias, the only direct trail head is at the refuge.

By Car

It is generally recommended that a car is rented and used as there is no access to the refuge via public transport or taxi. This can be done either in Athens, or Kalamata - the nearest international airport. It is also possible to get to the area from Patra if travelling by ferry from Italy.

Road Condition

The road to the refuge is a rough and steep dirt road above the vilage of Toriza ("Τόριζα") and it is generally recommended that a 4x4 is used, as well as the driver is accustomed to Greek forestry roads. The road is generally well maintained but may remain closed during the winters, as well as become a victim to errosion during fall and spring. Summitpost commenters have continously provided useful beta suggesting that the road is easily accessible during the summer months.

"We drove a small car (Peugeot 108) up to the shelter. The road is steep and we needed to maintain speed, but it is not very rocky or rutted and out little car made it to the top without problem." -user hhabgood

Route(s)

Standard East Face

Distance: 3.3km (one-way)

Duration: 3 hours (one-way)

Elevation Gain: 855m

Difficulty: Medium

Water: Spring (@ refuge, 1,550m)

Overview

The Standard East Face route is the fastest and easiest route up the mountain. It is around 4.5 hours round trip and 3 hours up. Starting at the EOS Sparti refuge at 1,550m of elevation the route heads West and starts just behind the refuge. The route initially goes North and then South towards the summit, making the elevation gain smoother, while also traversing the "Plakes" (translated to "Plates") Platy Limestone layers.

Refuge to "Gouves" Place

First the trail goes through a nice mellow forest before reaching a steep and rocky outcorp that must be scaled. At this point the hike should have taken around 30 minutes. Once above the outcrop the terrain turns into an apron, with large rocks from the mountain above, here walk along the trail North to North West slowly gaining elevation. After about 1 hour of total time the "Gouves" place should have been reached at 1,860m. It is marked with a wooden sign.

"Gouves" to "Portes" via "Plakes"

From here the trail is mainly dirt but not too steep with the exception of two or three sections. The rock traverse after "Gouves" and on the way to "Plakes" is the most exposed. After this traverse the "Plakes" section starts and the trail heads South, gaining elevation much faster. At this point hikers will follow the incline of the limestone layers of the mountain which make a narrow walkway on its steep face. "Plakes" begins at 1,990m and ends at "Portes" (meaning "Doors") at 2,238m. This place marks the entrance past the main ridge and into the mountain proper. From "Gouves" to "Plakes" it should be also about 1 hour, making it 2 hours from the refuge.

"Portes" to Profitis Ilias (2,405m) summit

Now from "Portes" at 2,238m the summit of Profitis Ilias (2,405m) should be visible to the hikers left (South) as they come up through the ridge. From here it is about 30 minutes to the summit but with the trail being very steep, rocky and covered with pebbles. The trail is clearly visible but is not very wide.

Descending "Plakes" with a view of "Sidirokastro"

"Gouves" (1,860m) with some snow, June 16th

When to Climb

Profitis Ilias (2,405m) is subjected to extreme weather throughout the year and thus, the hiking and mountaineering season are both rather short. For hikers it is generally recommended to attempt in June or September, while for mountaineering late Spring - around April - is usually the best.

Huts & Camping

Taygetos Refuge

The Tygetos Refuge or Hut is operated by the Sparti Mountaineering Club (EOS Spartis) and is opened upon request, it is located below Profitis Ilias on the East slopes at an elevation of 1,500m. It has a capacity of 26 people and both electricity and heating, provided by PV and petrol respectively, as well as running water including drinkable from a spring 200m away. There are toilets outside the hut. The original hut was first built in 1940 but was never operated due to WW2, the current one has been built from the same materials and opened in 1962.

Your can find more on the Taygetos Refuge, EOS Spartis website.

Summit Camping

Wild camping is generally allowed in Greece. Do not camp below the tree line due to animals, and especially do not light any fires below the tree line. Taygetos is frequented by through hikers across the ridge, so there may be unofficial campsites at convinent locations. One of these is at the summit of Profitis Ilias (2,405m) which is very popular. Hikers camp on the summit of Profitis Ilias (2,405m) during the summer, in part to experience the unique sunrise shadow of the peak, creating a perfect pyramid on the land below. The area on the summit is relatively flattened around the chapel of Profitis Ilias and on the Eastern false summit, and wind-breaker walls also have been put in place using local stones.

Because of its popularity, it may be hard to find a camping spot during the peak summer hiking season in early June and September.

The summit shadow during sunset (view E)

The summit shadow during sunrise (view W)

Natura 2000

Due to its extensive size the mountain is home to a number of Natura 2000 designated areas. The one most relevant to Profitis Ilias (2,405m) is "Oros Taygetos, Spilaia Trachilas & Vatsinidi" (GR2550006) totalling 54,000ha. It is home to several habitats, while low, thorny formations of hemispherical shrubs of the coastal thermo-Mediterranean zone (EUNIS 5420) make up the majority of the area. The Natura habitat record also notes the disapearance of hard water springs with active formation of travertine or tufa (EUNIS 7220) from the site. With its diverse geology and fauna, the Natura 2000 site of Taygetos is home to a variety of animal and plant species including reptiles, mammals, and birds. The Natura 2000 directive covers mainly plants, invertibrates, and reptiles, as well as the Eurasian Otter, the lone protected mammal. However, Taygetos is also designated as an Important Area for Birds in Greece (GR120) by the Hellenic Ornithological Society, where more than 20 species of birds are being monitored including Falcons and Eagles.