Teewinot Mountain Climber's Log

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Jolee

Jolee - Aug 17, 2005 1:43 am

Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: August 2000  Sucess!

My husband and climbing partner, bthere, claims we climbed this on our 1 year anniversary. Not true, we climbed it days prior to our wedding. This I know because I was certain my family would end up at my funeral instead. The north face was adventurous, but REALLY lose rock and poor pro. One of my anchors consisted of a cordellete slung around a small, loose boulder that I sat on top of in an effort to make a stronger anchor. Due to the loose rock all I could think during the entire climb was "please let there be no people underneath this climb".

JLMTBike

JLMTBike - Jul 11, 2005 12:17 am

Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: August 15, 2003  Sucess!

Great climb, tougher on the legs and knees than anything else, one mistake on the climb though was to not bring an ice ax, the snow patches about 3/4 of the way up are made much easier and quicker when an ice ax is available. Also be sure to bring lots of water as there are precious few run-off springs on the route in which to fill up. Great, fun climb perfect for begginers or people looking for a fun and challenging day!

mountaingazelle

mountaingazelle - May 1, 2005 5:15 pm

Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: August 14, 1999  Sucess!

This is a great mountain to climb. The route basically goes straight up the mountain. There is some fun 4th class scrambling. The view of the Grand and Mount Owen is very beautiful but the descent is a little hard on your legs.

dunsum

dunsum - Apr 7, 2005 4:37 am

Route Climbed: couple Date Climbed: July '97

Direct North Ridge, 7/4/97

East Face, 8/26/00

East Ridge, solo, 7/27/06

Cathedral Traverse, via East Face, 8/13-14/08

cottersnow - Feb 28, 2005 10:00 pm

Route Climbed: N face Date Climbed: August 2003  Sucess!

Summitted, but early altitude sickness ended what is probably one of the more pathetic attempts at the Grand Traverse in recorded history.

mr kieran - Sep 19, 2004 1:20 pm

Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: Sept 9, 2004  Sucess!

Solo ascent, like most of my ventures. Climbed base to summit in just over 4hrs...would've been less, but I spent an hour futzing around looking for the route. Only one pitch with any real exposure, but it was enough to make things interesting...oh yes. And downclimbing it was even more exciting. At least the rock was firm. Magnificent, unique view from the summit. LOOONG way down, hard on the knees. Met three parties on the descent, all real friendly folks. My car was an oven when I got back.

Chris

Chris - Mar 23, 2004 10:12 pm

Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: August 1994  Sucess!

This is a LONG day climb with a lot of elevation gain, but very fun. Great views of the range from up close. As stated in the overview page, the climb/descent is definately at the hard end of Class 4 (at least for me).

b.

b. - Aug 21, 2003 2:17 pm

Route Climbed: North Face III, 5.6 Date Climbed: September 2, 2001  Sucess!

My wife and I spent our first anniversary on Teewinot. The route is not recommended for pure climbing, but the adventurous nature is hard to match. The entire bit across the North Face is loose and scary, with marginal protection in the shattered rock. We spent so much time on the summit collecting ourselves that we descended the East Face in the dark.

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Aug 20, 2003 3:52 am

Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: 23 Aug 1970

The East Ridge route is a very nice rock climb (5.4) with the same easy approach as the East Face. The difficulty can be varied according to how closely one follows the ridge crest.

Tom Fralich

Tom Fralich - Aug 7, 2003 8:02 pm

Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: July 27, 2003  Sucess!

Climbed to the summit as a simul-solo with David Kozak in 10 hrs car-to-car. Route finding was a bit tricky and we ended up slightly off route on some terrain which was probably 5th class. There were two short sections of very compact snow which were quite tedious but tolerable in approach shoes. The descent was the hardest part since there were sustained sections of exposed class 4 climbing which required careful attention. Very nice summit with great views and a nice photo opportunity on the very sharp summit pinnacle.

Viewing: 1-20 of 70
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