Not signing the TRUE summit log, only the route log (I know, I know)--partner bailed on going for the summit, as it was dark, and windy, and I was only too willing to share his moral parachute--but I DO recommend the route. It's 5.7+ and Grade IV. It's a pretty long climb, even if you solo and simul the first few pitches. The hardest part, though, was the cl3 traverse on the north side of the second tower--loose, downward-sloping blocks and shingles covered in wet ice with a frosting of rotten snow, later in the day, gloomy and cold. A guide once told me that he thought Temple was cursed, and I was starting to believe when my feet skittered out from beneath my shivering butt!
In August, 2004, backed off the Venusian Blind, at the top of Pitch 5. Combo of rockfall cutting the rope almost dead center, slow team, and bad vibes.
Had an interesting adventure with automobile-sized rockfall on the way up. Scared my partner, so we ended up compounding our problem by going extra sloooowww for the rest of the climb. Bivvied on a crappy sloping ledge not far from the summit. Cursed my partner once again for being so damn warm-blooded, then continued to the summit at first light. Well, I hardly remember the suffering now. It's a beautiful peak, great views all around.
As mentioned below, with Doug Artman. Sustained moderate climbing with great exposure! We left our camp at third lake at 5:45am and were back at 4:00pm for a 10 hour 15 minutes round trip.
We missed Peter Croft at the summit by about 15 minutes. We also found some big fat chicks panties in the register box....or were they Peter's?
The approach to Third Lake only takes 2-3 hours and is tame. This route is LONG!
We got messed up at the start -- to begin, walk to the far right edge of the ledge, THEN take the left-most of the 2 right facing corners (turns into a big corner on the second pitch). We started too far left on another right-facing corner, and had to rappel. The Croft topo is incorrect, the first pitch is the crux, 10b ish not hard but technical. Because of our late start we ended up taking the 3rd class escape on the final tower, ~8 hrs climbing time.
Not as long as they say, we belayed 12 pitches and soloed a lot of stuff no harder than 5.4, but sometimes loose. 10c for the first pitch, then nothing harder that 9, several places where you can climb 9 finger cracks that could be avoided otherwise. Nothing harder than 5.8 on upper tower, what 10 roof? 9 hours....
Just adding some old summits. Did this with my Dad as a teen coming up from Third Lake. Found the correct chute to make this a mostly class 2 with some 3 climb.
The tyrolian was classic, though it did take while to lasso that horn.
75 yards of a classic airy traverse is the only fun in the 18 miles of this route. It's way too long. Though I have not done it, climbing Contact Crack to the southeast face should cut a tremendous amount of time and mileage from the normal southeast face route.
On the positive side, Temple Crag is a striking mountain with great views from the summit.
At 16 pitches minimum I think it should be a Grade IV, it has taken me a long full day each time. Love that exposed traverse around the first tower and hate the loose stuff around the second. A beautiful backcountry climb.
Eric Klostermann and I did this classic High Sierra rock climb in 1998. We found all the Guide descriptions a bit off. We would rate the route IV, 5.8.
This was enormously enjoyable climb with very competent partner. I hope Dave Daily, who administers this page, will be able to include a topo of the route. I send him a write up and a topo of it. Recommended. Quality Route.
Excellent route. Tried to climb the route a week prior but got dumped on with a foot of snow. Eventually made tracks back out to Third Lake the next week. Azure skies and the scent of hemlock invited us as we made the approach. Simuled the first few pitches (low to moderate 5th). Travelled the right side of the arete for the best exposure. Tip-toed around the right side of the first signaficant gendarme (5.4 and loads of exposure...yeeha!). From the notch behind the gendarme, we climbed up to the Ibreum Tower (5.7) two pitches. You can either cut right and around the tower on 4th class or take on the tower. The upper half of the tower (also known as 'Flawless Tower'.....how cute!) is stout 5.9 on loose terrain (we found a good amount of abandoned gear and slings). It reminded me of a loosely constructed brick house, each stone creeking as its weighted. Good pucker factor! Once we got past the tower, the climb becomes an obsticle course. We then headed to the summit via 3rd class the last couple of pitches.