We climbed the SW route that Scott describes. We encountered two 5th class parts - the 15 foot chimney with the rock stack at the base and the upper portion that takes you to the summit plateau. We did NOT find any short 5.4 chimney down low (first lime green part on the pic diagram)...maybe something fell from above and left boulders there because we had 3rd and 4th class scrambling the whole way to the base of the 15 ft section with the rocks at the base. We thought the two 5th class sections were 5.4 or 5.5, definitely not low 5th class unless you are very tall (matt!). Good to have a small rack of cams and nuts. We had a 70m rope that allowed us to do rap down below both 5th class parts. 60m might be long enough too. Reinforced Matt's anchor on the summit plateau. our rope got stuck just above the first 15ft cliff, so we had to reclimb that and build another anchor to rap that part again...annoying. finally, this route is LOOSE. very loose. Bring a helmet and be careful, we had some close calls with big boulders moving. We ranked this as a 1-star climb (bc of the loose rock) with 5-star views.
Climbed the red colored route in Scott's diagram (Also see my new diagram on the route page). I would grade the route a few moves of 5.4 with the crux being the first 10 foot step. There was a pile of rocks to stand on to give you a boost through this section both times I have been there. The upper part of the route to the summit ridge is on better rock and I added rappel anchors since there were none to be found anywhere. We used a 30 meter rope and only one rappel is needed if you decide to downclimb the first 10 foot step, although I think that is the crux so we did a second, short rappel. TR will come with plenty of beta. Beautiful summit and the NE summit definitely is higher; which is nice because that one is easier to get to! The NW summit seems to have a tough and exposed traverse along the summit ridge.
We arrived at the end not expecting it to be class 5 at the ending. We looked around for another way, but there was non from what we could see.
Climbed via route on SE side described by Wasatchvoyage. Near the crux we more or less followed the red line (Route A) in his photo. Loose and exposed, yes. Neither of us could call it 4th class by any stretch of the imagination, but that's just our opinion. Climbed the east summit and then traversed to the west summit. Looking at both summits from each other all signs pointed to the eastern one being higher but we can't say for sure.
To descend from the western summit we traversed east for a bit just below the ridge on the south side and found a full 60 meter rope - abondoned apparently by either a newbie or someone who had to bail real quick. It was draped around a huge boulder in such a way that it was more than obvious it could never be pulled from below! We replaced it with some webbing and then used it to rap down and packed it out... convenient since our rope was only 30 meters and wouldn't have gotten us down from this point. It was actually a surprisingly clean rappel considering what a choss pile this peak is (and I mean that in the nicest way :). I loved it!
April 1992. Great summit!