Teton Dreams: Mt. Moran CMC Route (Photo Trip Report)

Page Type
Trip Report
Location:
Wyoming, United States, North America
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Aug 22, 2009
Activities:
Mountaineering
Season:
Summer
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Teton Dreams: Mt. Moran CMC Route (Photo Trip Report)
Created On: Aug 26, 2009
Last Edited On: Apr 8, 2013

Mt. Moran, CMC Route

Last year was my first trip to the Teton Mountains. After stunning climbs on the Grand Teton and Ice Point, I was struck with a burning need to make an annual pilgrimage to continue exploring this range. Initially my wife was resistant to the idea, so we struck a deal: She gets four days to do whatever women like to do in spas, shops, and restaurants while I get four uninterrupted days in the mountains. That was our deal for the summer of 2009, but a funny thing happened along the way--she got pregnant. While this was good news for us, I was selfishly afraid she'd kill my summer climbing plans. Ah, but what a stellar wife she is . . .

After a phenomenal Cirque of the Towers trip in late July, Glenn, Levi and I teamed up again to climb the CMC route on Mt. Moran. 

Click for the Full Trip Report on my photography website.

Climbers: Caleb, Glenn, Levi, Matt.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Mount Moran.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
The stunning view of Teewinot, Grand Teton and Mt. Owen from near the String Lake dock.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
After an awkward paddle up String Lake (because of our total inexperience in canoes), we did the short portage and looked to start from a clean slate in Leigh Lake.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
The still waters of Leigh Lake.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Canoeing across Leigh Lake, we were starting to figure it out. Although everytime I stopped to take a photo we would s-turn like a snake. I take a lot of photos, so I'm sure we looked goofy.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Time to bare the weight ourselves and hike 3,000 vertical feet to camp.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Over halfway there, with a great view of the West Horn, East Horn and Falling Ice Glacier.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
In camp, we had plenty of time to eat, rest up, and chase pika around with my camera.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Surveying his domain...
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Alpenglow over the Grand Teton.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
A 4:30 a.m. start brought us to the saddle between Drizzlepuss and the West Horn at sunrise.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
The top of Drizzlepuss. We cached some of our water here.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
The downclimb of Drizzlepuss: easy, but quite intimidating upon first glance.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Preparing the rappel down the second half of Drizzlepuss.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
The full view of the CMC face. Good stuff! This is what we came for!
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Traversing out onto the face under Unsoeld's Needle.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Great climbing near the middle portion of the face.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
My favorite pitch of the climb was a fantastic handcrack/flake system that arched right on the wall. Ah, it was so good!
CMC route, Mt. Moran
There are 100 different ways you could climb this wall. Simply choose what looks fun.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Near the top, everything appears to be 3rd/4th class. We dropped our gear and finished the rest without the extra weight.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
We had two small storm cells pass by us during the ascent. We expected to see the forecasted afternoon storms growing on the horizon, but to our relief the skies were rather friendly.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Glenn on the top, looking south.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Matt on the top, looking north.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
A lot of downclimbing and four double-rope rappels . . .
CMC route, Mt. Moran
. . . brought us back below Unsoeld's Needle . . .
CMC route, Mt. Moran
. . . to the climb up Drizzlepuss.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Although only rated 5.4, the exposure makes you tread carefully.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
Again, the early afternoon storms miss us. Everything was going our way!
CMC route, Mt. Moran
We rested in camp until the descent trail was in the shade, then we took off to make it back to the cars by dark.
CMC route, Mt. Moran
The early evening conditions were wonderfully comfortable, and we made it back just in time. We pulled into the dock at String Lake as the light faded to black.







Comments

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Viewing: 1-9 of 9
marauders

marauders - Aug 26, 2009 4:11 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Wow Matt

Now it's my turn to be super husband over the next three months!

vanman798

vanman798 - Aug 26, 2009 12:13 pm - Hasn't voted

Very Nice!

Great pics of a great trip. Thanks for sharing them.

marauders

marauders - Aug 26, 2009 4:12 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Very Nice!

Thanks. I'm looking forward to some skiing here in a few months.

dfrancom

dfrancom - Aug 26, 2009 2:31 pm - Voted 10/10

Cool

Looks like you guys had a great time!

cp0915

cp0915 - Aug 26, 2009 3:58 pm - Voted 10/10

Beautiful photos!

Congrats on your climb of this classic route.

marauders

marauders - Aug 26, 2009 4:12 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Beautiful photos!

Thanks. The scenery was stunning.

Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Aug 30, 2009 9:15 am - Voted 10/10

Great photos.....

...and report. Looks like you guys had good weather and a wonderful climb. Brings back memories.

AE

marauders

marauders - Aug 31, 2009 6:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Great photos.....

Thanks. The Tetons never disappoint.

rpc

rpc - Jul 16, 2010 11:42 am - Voted 10/10

big fan

of your TR's. Really spectacular stuff! Cheers.

Viewing: 1-9 of 9

Teton Dreams: Mt. Moran CMC Route (Photo Trip Report)

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