Texas Flakes

Page Type
Route
Location:
Texas, United States, North America
Route Type:
Beginner Trad/ Solo climbing
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
5.4

Route Quality: 0 Votes

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Created On: Jul 6, 2005
Last Edited On: Jul 6, 2005

Approach


Start from the Gazebo up the Summit Trail and once above the "tree line" traverse west to the Echo canyon trail. Decend a quarter mile down the trail, turn right just past "lunch rock" and hike up to the "cave-in boulder". Scramble around the three house sized boulders and you will find a chimney starting from a ledge just above the boulders. Start climbing.

Route Description


The route starts as a chimney about 3 feet wide and abruptly ends in a series of 3 cracks. Continue following the cracks to the left till you reach a reppelling ledge with two bolts. From here there is another 70 feet of class 2-3 scrambling and a short walk to the summit.

This may be the perfect route for learning to Trad climb. Though the route is not quite a full pitch it provides a variety of different placement types, are made from a short chimney, two differing cracks, and a slab. This combined with it's easy grade makes great for learning.

Fun for beginners and soloed by many more experienced climbers this is a worthwhile route.

Essential Gear


Outside of the ten essentials the route can be done with a 50 meter rope and any combination of passive or active caming devices. The route can usually be done with 6-7 pieces in the range of size .75- 2 BD cams. Three or four short runners used for extending your protection would also be advisable.

Whether you are trad climbing or soloing this route, bringing extra water is a must. Like most routes at "E-rock" it is exposed to the Texas sun most of the way. Dehydration and heat exhaustion are common.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Bob Sihler

Bob Sihler - Nov 13, 2016 9:26 pm - Hasn't voted

Chimney is a variation

This route actually begins at a prominent flake a few yards to the right of the chimney. Going this way puts the full pitch at a little over 100' in length and introduces serious issues with rope drag (and it is 5.5 with a tricky start). This version also offers placements for larger cams such as a #5 C4. Starting at the chimney is a more direct variation (5.4). I haven't done it, as it was wet the day I did this route.



Caution: some of the flakes on this route sound hollow and feel rotten. Test the rock before you put something, especially a cam, in it.



Because of the rock quality and the drag issues, I do not think this a very good beginner lead despite the grade.

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Texas Flakes

Route
0 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 1 Additions & Corrections

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