The 5.12/A1 crack high on the...

The 5.12/A1 crack high on the Direct S Buttress route. The piton fixed in the crack just below the white rock was very loose. We used it still, but be careful. The exposure is what makes this route! August 2005.

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rpc

rpc - Aug 23, 2005 11:51 am - Voted 10/10

Cool stuff.

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Dave Daly

Dave Daly - Sep 2, 2005 3:49 pm - Voted 10/10

Potential Deck

Just before the pin appears you've placed gear but that wouldn't prevent you from decking on that slab. Yuck!

b.

b. - Sep 2, 2005 3:59 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Potential Deck

The gear is all fixed pins until you start back up the crack. And you're right, there was serious swing potential into the corner when you stand on that first #4 stopper placement, and again when you move to the wobbly piton. But the one after that is solid!

Andinistaloco

Andinistaloco - Jan 25, 2006 12:10 am - Voted 10/10

Nice!

Very airy....

PanamaRed

PanamaRed - Aug 20, 2013 5:13 pm - Voted 10/10

Awesome shit!

I just did the CMC route yesterday, and was looking up at the south buttress the entire way back. I hope someday to climb at your level!

b.

b. - Aug 20, 2013 5:16 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Awesome shit!

Hey, we were aiding, that makes it easy! I climbed the DSB to the summit a couple of years after this. That is the ultimate Teton route.

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