Dow Williams - Apr 28, 2014 3:38 pm Date Climbed: Apr 24, 2014
The Big Corner
The second pitch of the Big Corner is one of the finer pitches at the grade near Sedona. The first pitch is not all as bad as folks make it out. I have seen much worse. Leading the 2nd pitch, I placed one of just about everything from Metolius 0 to a C4#4. The only doubles I recommend are the C4#.4 and the Metolius 0 equivalents. I placed no wires myself. It was a plug and go kind of route. For me the off width was no worries and the crux would be the tips finish. But like has been mentioned elsewhere, the key is face climbing out right for a meter or two at the very top and stemming off of the corner. Good stuff indeed.
Dow Williams - Apr 28, 2014 3:38 pm Date Climbed: Apr 24, 2014
The Big CornerThe second pitch of the Big Corner is one of the finer pitches at the grade near Sedona. The first pitch is not all as bad as folks make it out. I have seen much worse. Leading the 2nd pitch, I placed one of just about everything from Metolius 0 to a C4#4. The only doubles I recommend are the C4#.4 and the Metolius 0 equivalents. I placed no wires myself. It was a plug and go kind of route. For me the off width was no worries and the crux would be the tips finish. But like has been mentioned elsewhere, the key is face climbing out right for a meter or two at the very top and stemming off of the corner. Good stuff indeed.