The Black Spout (winter)

Page Type
Route
Location:
Cairngorms, Scotland, Europe
Route Type:
Basic Snow/Ice Climb
Time Required:
A long day
Difficulty:
Scottish Grade I

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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The Black Spout (winter)
Created On: May 29, 2004
Last Edited On: May 29, 2004

Length of climb


250m

Approach


From Spittal of Glenmuick bear right immediately after the visitor centre and head along the land rover track to the small out-house of the Alt-na-giubhsaich. Continue in the same direction through the pretty pine forest for a short distance until you re-emerge onto another land rover track. Follow this for about 3km to a fork in the track. Head left along a smaller path which drops down slightly before a steady 2km climb brings you to the saddle between Meikle Pap and Lochnagar. From here views of the cliffs are spectacular and this makes a pleasant spot for a break. From the saddle head down into the coire picking your way through the boulders to a first aid box (only open in an emergency) and avalanche probes. This is the usual "gearing up" place. From here the Black Spout is the lagest gully on the cliff slanting up rightwards. (286 degrees from 1st aid box)

Route Description


Route is obvious up easy angled snow which gradually steepens towards the top. The cornice can be large and is usually passable on the right.

Essential Gear


Normal winter kit including:
>Full waterproofs
>Map (OS Landranger 44 or Explorer 388)
>Compass
>Headtorch
>Survival / bivi bag

Essential climbing gear:
>Ice axe ( 1 is adequate but use 2 if you have them)
>Crampons
>Helmet (route is quite popular)
>Basic rock rack
>Slings
>Snow stake / deadman's belay

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.







The Black Spout (winter)

Route
1 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Routes in Scotland

Parents

LochnagarRoutes