The Blue Gully is less-known that its famous neighbor, the Green Gully, but it is another classic climb and should not be overlooked. The climb is easier than the Green Gully, and is often done as a warm-up just before climbing the Green Gully. This was one of the earliest routes done in North America by the pioneers of ice climbing in the early 70's.
From the Pine Creek trailhead, follow the trail half a mile to the bridge, where the climb comes into view ahead on the right. Continue a quarter mile to where both the Green and Blue Gullies can be seen. Look for tracks heading off the trail shortly after the Wilderness Boundary sign. Follow the tracks, or make your own, and cross the river. Head up the large talus field or snow field, depending on the time of year, to the base of the climb. The Blue Gully is the smaller one on the left easily distinguished by its blue colour vs. the green colour of the Green Gully. Plan on 45 minutes to an hour for the approach.
Route DescriptionThe Blue Gully
: WI3 60m
FA: David Vaughan and Brian Leo - February 1971
Begin anywhere at the base, the further left being more difficult. Once on top of the slope, continue up to where the ice fall splits into a left and a right fork. Take either one, as they are both equal in difficulty, the left will be longer in reaching the anchors. Early and late season ascents will have rock on the right fork, making for an exciting mixed variation of the route. Each fork is around 10m to the top of the climb, where you can belay from fixed anchors on the right wall. Descend by rappelling the route from these anchors. Two ropes are required to reach the base, you will have to V-thread if you only have one rope.
There is avalanche danger from above. Make sure snow conditions are bomber before heading to this climb.
Ice screws are all that are needed, unless climbing in early or late season conditions. Take as many as you feel you need, usually around 8