The Classic

Approach

From the Granite Basin Lake parking area, take trail 261 west to Blair pass, then turn North (through horse gate) continuing on 261 for approximately 1/4 mile up switchbacks. At the fourth switchback there is a smaller climber's trail that leads east, toward the main face on the mountain. This steep and rough trail will take you all the way to a wide, flat ledge at the base of the Flying Buttress, called the front porch. Most people rack up for climbs on the main face here.

Route Description

Climb is four pitches of sandbagged 5.7 fun. Begin pitch one on the left-hand side of the buttress in a right facing dihedral. Climb up a shallow handcrack to a small ledge with a tree. (5.6)
Pitch two: Continue up the obvious chimney to a good belay. (5.5?)
Pitch three: Climb up the beautiful, right facing dihedral for 30 feet until it terminates at a steep wall. Maneuver left with a tricky step out and cruise a small chimney and smallish holds to the top of the buttress. Straddle the ridge and belay. (5.7)
Pitch four: The "High Exposure Exit." Traverse right across a face with thin and crimpy holds using three bolts. Continue around the corner to a nice bushy ledge and belay. Some parties avoid this pitch altogether by climbing through a hole out east of the buttress, then cross over to the ledge where the rap station for Coke Bottle is located.

Essential Gear

A full rack of cams and an assortment of nuts is neccessary to complete the route, as well as a few draws for the last pitch.
Bring lots of water and you may consider bringing a headlamp if starting any time after noon. The approach can sometimes be confusing when it begins to get dark. You DO NOT want to get stuck bushwhacking here at night.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

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