Another nice route on The Sheepshead formation. Six pitches of mostly bolted face climbing. Not very sustained but each pitch has that sweet gem of a move or two it seemed to us. Well protected throughout. Last two pitches were funnest IMHO.
Follow directions on the main Sheepshead page. The approach trail puts you right at the base of Absinthe Of Mallet
route. From here, traverse left following the base of the formation. Above you (~50 feet) looms a huge roof. Go past it. Pass a line of bolts on a steep (hardish looking) face. Next line of bolts is what you want: 3 closely spaced bolts angling right to a small tree.
P6 P4 P3 P3
5.10a, 120 feet. Move up and right towards the tree following botls. Enter the 5.8 crack above (only place you need gear on the route). Follow a few more bolts when the crack peters out. Belay at bolted stance.
5.10a, 120 feet. Follow bolts up through a small bulge. Follow gray water streak above and then exit right. Pull another bulge (route crux?) and onto a slab. Belay from another set of bolts.
5.9, 120 feet. Easy terrain (bolt or two) to a bulge. More low angle face climbing above brings you to a bolted anchor.
5.8, 120 feet. Low angle face straight up to some slab climbing up a rounded ridge. Belay from bolts.
5.9, 120 feet. Continue up the slabby rib of rock clipping a couple bolts and then tying off a chickenhead or two (come prepared for that). Belay from two bolts on a huge ledge.
Move belay left 30 feet to another bolted stance (shared with Ewephoria
route). Can combine this walk with previous pitch.
5.9, 90 feet. Follow bolts up then left through bulges
. Pull left onto a very cool slab that follows the edge of an arete. Sweet, somewhat exposed pitch. Belay from bolts.
Follow the walk off directions from top of Sheepshead given here
. Back at base in 15 minutes.
Quick draws. Couple of long slings for slinging chickenheads. Handful of cams & nuts (from finger to #3 Camalot) only needed for mid-portion of pitch 1.
page is here