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Old School WB

Old School WB - Feb 11, 2013 1:51 pm - Voted 9/10

Great list


Thanks for the list. I already have too many difficult tick lists in my queue, but the climbing in Washington State has always fascinated me. I attempted a ski up Mt. Rainier (Disappointment Cleaver) back in May of 1995 (weather was not on our side and we didn’t get far), but having hiked many trails through the State since then; I am keen to climb more and more in this beautiful State. You have posed some beautiful objectives and lots of summits to dream about.

Keep the great photos and pages coming!

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Feb 11, 2013 2:37 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Great list

Thanks! Yeah WA has some really cool mountains but I am really excited to climb in Alberta and BC...
I can't wait to head there this summer

Murph1 - Jan 24, 2014 2:35 am - Voted 8/10

Top Ten List!

Pretty much agree with most of your picks for most difficult peaks in the Great State of WAshington. I would remove just two: Johannesberg Mt. and Lincoln Peak. My replacements would be Early Morning Spire with no routes below Grade II 5.7 and a difficult approach, and North Early Winters Spire also Grade II 5.7 on easiest route.
My next ten list would contain Mt. Goode, Liberty Bell, Mt. Triumph, Molar Tooth, Kangaroo Temple, Jack Mountain, Mesahchie Pk., Gunsight Pk, Lincoln Peak, North Peak Chimney Rocks
At 74 I am pretty much out of the technical climbing scene. Happy now to just get out in the High Sierras near my home and do the easy Class 3-4 mountains.
Have a great 2014 Climbing Season!

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Jan 24, 2014 2:44 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Top Ten List!

I didn't make this list ;)

It was originally created by famous WA climber Dallas Kloke. I agree though that Lincoln and J'burg are probably not supposed to be on the list. However, as I wrote at the bottom of the page, the two replacements that are commonly accepted are Assasin Spire (had its FA in 2009) and Gunsight Peak (which has a 2-3 day approach and 5.8 via easiest route).

I'd have to think awhile to come up with the next 10 however I doubt Goode, Jack, Mesahchie, or Triumph would be on that list. There are still numerous 5th class towers not listed.

Murph1 - Jan 24, 2014 8:23 pm - Voted 8/10

Top Twenty List

I didn't pick the ones named for difficulty of all routes but for the difficulty of approach, and commitment once on the mountain. Several have one 4 and low 5 route on them, but all of them are long ascents, involving serious route finding and dangers such as slippery rock, rock fall,
If difficulty of all routes is the only requirement the peaks you listed would not be there. Peaks like Chablis Spire,or Swiss Pk would be more appropriate.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Jan 24, 2014 8:30 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Top Twenty List

Usually the difficulty of the standard/easiest route is the one used to determine difficulty. I kind of consider all aspects of the easiest route when determining overall difficulty like approach length, bushwhacking, glaciers, route-finding, rock quality, and rock difficulty as well as objective danger and descent issues.


Tom_Sjolseth - May 17, 2014 2:35 am - Hasn't voted


NEWS tougher to climb than Lincoln Peak?

EMS tougher than Johannesburg?

Both of those assertions are laughable. EMS has a class 4 route from the N, a very short distance above the glacier. NEWS can be approached in a little over an hour from the road, and its easiest route is an inconsequential 5.6 that you can climb with a fanny pack and be back before lunch. Lincoln is a VERY serious peak that you'd better bring your A game to climb in good conditions with a high risk of avalanches, and copious rockfall. Johannesburg is a very serious peak that has some very loose rock and a long, dangerous route to the summit from any direction. The comparison is not even close.

One thing to point out is that although Kloke came up with the peaks on the list, he didn't order them by difficulty - I did.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - May 30, 2014 4:42 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Huh?

I agree with you Tom...not sure exactly was he was talking about. Excellent work on finishing them all (I'm sure you've heard it enough lol). It's definitely a goal of mine to do them.

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