The Dihedral (Chimney Variation)

The Dihedral (Chimney Variation)

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 34.72160°N / 98.7238°W
Route Type: Technical Rock Climb (Traditional)
Time Required: Less than two hours
Difficulty: 5.6


From the parking lot, hike to the north on a signed trail. Follow the creek NW for about 1/2 mile until reaching a waterfall. Cross the creek to the left just before the waterfall and scramble up a hill. Follow the trail (north) until reaching a house-size boulder. Go right (east) from the boulder and follow the trail until reaching a cave-like formation under a large boulder. Crawl through cave exiting left and the trail will resume on the other side. A faint climbers trail will gradually turn into a scramble for the last 100 ft. Belay from ledge with a tree just below the route. This approach takes 45 min - 1 hr and is about 1.5 miles.

Route Description

This climb and Great Expectations are great routes for beginning trad leaders.

Pitch 1, 5.6: From the belay ledge, scramble slightly right up 30 ft to the obvious right-facing dihedral. Follow the dihedral for about 40 ft until it reaches a ledge on the right. Climb up and onto the ledge and enter a chimney (5.4). Follow the chimney for 50 ft. Pro is scarce in the chimney. In fact, there's none (but it's easy and fun). Finish the chimney to the left and scramble to a ledge with a small tree and two rap anchors. 120 ft.

The original route goes past the ledge on the right, follows the dihedral, then goes right to the rap anchors.

Pitch 2, 5.4: From the ledge, continue following the right-facing dihedral for 30 ft. The dihedral will turn to the left and traverse to two rap anchors after another 40 ft. Rap 200 ft (angling to the rappeler's right) to the base of the route. Do not rap directly down Water Streak or you will end up in the wrong place.

The Dihedral: Route #3 (Click photo to enlarge)

Essential Gear

Small to medium cams and a set of stoppers. Two 60 meter ropes. A few runners.

Miscellaneous Info

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