The Direct Exum is AWESOME. Do it now

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Trip Report
Wyoming, United States, North America
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Jan 1, 2005
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Created On: Aug 4, 2005
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We left the car at 3:30 AM with heavy packs. The plan was to set up camp in the moraines early and the hit the direct exum after that's finished.
We slogged up the trail and arrived at the moraines at 8:15 am or so. We departed for the Exum by 8:45.
The base of the route wasn't that hard to find. The entry ledge is easy to spot, once you walk towards the Petzoldt ridge far enough. Once at the base we busted out our "dental floss", a 60m 8.1 rope, doubled it up and got in sumulclimbing mode. We were able to simulclimb the entire lower exum with one gear swap. Most of the route is really cruiser, with only a few spots of true 5.7, not sustained either. The rock is also immacultate. Some of the best I've climbed - there's ALOT of jugs on this route.
Once at the Upper Exum we unroped and raced weather to the top. Very moderate, fun and block climbing is what the upper portion of our day consisted of. We tagged the top and the cruised down to the rappells where we teamed up w/ some Oregon climbers for the raps. Weather ended up being great all day - until 2 AM when it hit the fan. We ended up hiking out the next morning and checking out the Jenny Lake boulders. Absolutely a killer moderate route.


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