The Duke, 5.6-5.10d

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Idaho, United States, North America
Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
208 Hits
73.06% Score
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The Duke, 5.6-5.10d
Created On: Jun 11, 2017
Last Edited On: Jun 11, 2017



Git r Done, 5.10b**
Dow leading Get'r Done, 5.10b**

One of the more sought after bolted classics at Castle Rocks is True Grit (5.10a***). True Grit and the Duke are two tower like features in the park and share a gully in between them. Two bolted climbs on the Duke (just a 5 minute hike from the True Grit route) are actually more challenging and interesting than the True Grit climb, but get far less attention, Let’r Buck (5.10b**) and Git’r Done (5.10b**). Bottom line is you can plan for a significant portion of your day at this location chasing or avoiding the sun as you circumvent the towers which are just a short hike off of the park road (hiking road, not driving) that runs along the southern aspect of the formations that make up the majority of the climbing in the park aside from the Castle Rock massif itself.

Park at the main parking area and head northwest out of the parking lot. Turn right on a dirt/grass road that heads for Comp Rock, etc. In 2017, a sign marked the left turn onto a single track hiking trail that leads straight to True Grit in short order. The Duke is located directly behind True Grit. If you want to reach the before mentioned 5.10b sport climbs, hike around the east end of True Grit and through a notch. Both routes are right together on the southeast face of the Duke.

Route Description (s)

South Face, Routes Listed Left to Right

  • Slot Canyon Ambush- 60’-5.10b**/

  • Ranch Hands- 120’-5.10a*/

  • Let’r Buck- 90’-5.0b**/Longer, interesting cruxes and more sustained climbing than True Grit (5.10a).  Both of these routes deserve at least 3 if not 4 star treatment in the guide. Because of the sustained climbing, they are more closely bolted as well, with 10 and 11 bolts. Let’r Buck is on the left and starts out with a higher bolt off the deck, but no difficult move to reach it. The main crux is traversing back left over an exposed arête once you reach the pack rat minden. An airy step is made with your left foot and then a short dyno to a very positive hold. From there, the route still offers great climbing to the shared chains atop the Duke. Dow

  • Git’r Done- 90’-5.10b**/You can clip the first bolt from the ground. Start off with great rock features utilizing side pulls from yet another arête. The crux is several bolts up before the bulge/roof above. Too many features confuse the sequence. It is best to focus on side pulls and side ward feet as you squeeze directy up the bolt line. Then another interesting traverse left (one step) and up the same face above, but separate bolts lines, to the shared chains. Dow

  • North Face, Lower Tier, Routes Listed Left to Right

  • Glow Stick- 80’-5.8R*/

  • Enriched- 80’-5.8R*/

  • Yellow Cake- 50’-5.6*/

  • North Face, Upper Tier, Routes Listed Left to Right

  • Fill Your Hands- 60’-5.7*/

  • Mad Anthony- 60’-5.6*/

  • Ol’ Dollar- 60’-5.6**/

  • Whiskey Talk- 60’-5.10d**/

  • Put ‘em Up- 100’-5.10***/

  • Marion Morrison- 100’-5.10a**/

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