This route begins at the Horseshoe Basin Trailhead on the south side of Mt Edwards. Parking is available at the mine, more detailed directions are provided on the main page under "getting there". From the mine continue to hike on the old mining road towards the very visible Edwardian Couloir (see image
). Leave the road at a switchback near the base of a lower snow field. Climb this snowfield to the base of the Edwardian Couloir
Enter the couloir at approximately 12,500'. Begin ascending the couloir
directly. The average pitch is 30 degrees and there is approximately 1000' of sustained snow climbing for you to enjoy. The couloir forks midway up, I chose to go towards the right, as it is a more direct route. Just above this point at 13,000' the couloir reaches its crux pitch
, about 200' of climbing at 33 degrees before mellowing the final 500 feet to the top. There is no cornice. From the saddle at 13,580', follow the west ridge
directly to the summit.
Total distance for ascent is approximately 2 1/4 miles with 2750' of altitude gain. You can descend this route or descend via Argentine Pass and the Argentine Trail (appx 3 1/2 miles).
Ice Axe and Crampons are required, possibly snowshoes for the approach in early season.
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Topographic Map with Annotations for this route