So you've done knapsack crack
and manic depressive direct
. You're ready to step it up a notch, take it to the next level, huh? You're ready for the Farce! This route consists of some 5.5+ climbing easily protected from huge dikes on a steep face.
The Farce is located on the lower buttress which is reached by following the Pony Express Trail past the boulders and taking the climbers trail on the right. Follow the switchbacks up, skirting the base of the Lower Buttress, past Surrealistic Pillar and The Groove to the start of the Farce.
Route DescriptionPitch 1:
Follow the main crack up from the ground for a 5.8ish start. Angle in from the climber's right for an easy, though unprotected, start. Follow the main crack up until you can touch the bush growing under the overhang. Traverse to your left for 15-20 feet then up 5-10 feet then back right 15 feet or so. Set up your belay here. You will be almost directly over the line you climbed up before the traverse. It offers a great view of your partner coming up.
Pitch 1 variation:
Midway up you'll notice a crack 10 feet to the left of the main crack. Follow this for a move or two of 5.6/5.7 mantling. This will bypass the traverse under the overhang.
You'll need to run it out, just a little, on 5.3 terrain to the top of the cliff.
Scramble down the descent trail to the west ending back at the beginning of The Farce.
You can take some big gear, but you don't need it.
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