The Fin (5.7 - 5.11d)

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Colorado, United States, North America
Sport Climbing
Summer, Fall
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The Fin (5.7 - 5.11d)
Created On: Feb 28, 2009
Last Edited On: Feb 28, 2009

Overview / Approach

The Fin is the most dramatic formation on top of Lily Mountain - it's hard to miss. As you follow the climber's trail towards the top, the Fin is the long wall on the right side that ends at a sharp point, and sits across from the Dinosaur's Foot. Most of the climbs are on the side that faces the Foot. It's possible to scramble up the backside and access the anchors if you want to top rope any of the climbs. A sixty meter rope, a handful of quickdraws, and something for the anchors will get you up most anything.

Jurassic ParkJurassic Park from above

The Climbs

Routes are listed from left to right (generally) as you face the wall (with Dinosaur's Foot behind you):

  • East of Eden (5.9 R)

  • Lost Time (5.7)

  • Edge of Time (5.9) There are three bolts and one fixed pin on the route leading to a two bolt anchor with lowering rings. The crux comes early - the first couple moves off the ground. Clip the first bolt (easy), and then surmount the weird, right pulling arete. The difficulty is not being pulled off to the right as you try to climb up. There are a couple good spots for feet, but you have to work the balance. Once over that part, the climb remains interesting up to the second bolt (which is high enough that there is significant ground fall potential until you clip it). From here, the climb is shear enjoyment. Continue up the fine arete past the pin in a good horizontal crack. The arete steepens here, but the rock remains great. Climb up to the final bolt and then move slightly left to reach the anchors. This is the only other difficult part of the climb. The view from the top of the fin is not to be missed.

  • Andrology (5.11d)

  • Dynamometer (5.11b)

  • Unknown (5.11a)

  • CG's Naked Fun Time (5.10b)

Edge of TimeLeft Side of Edge of Time

External Links The Fin The Fin