The final 200 foot south...

The final 200 foot south face.
Yellow is a class 3 scramble and not difficult. The red section is class 4+ and where parties may want to rope up. After the traverse (in the middle of the red section), there are two chimneys. The left one has a big chockstone roof (near the top arrow in the photo). Don't traverse too far to the right. Begin climbing before reaching the second chimney (to the right of the upper red section in the photo). The red section is the crux. The blue (class 3) can either traverse as shown or climb slightly higher and traverse at a level above. The final section (class 3) cannot be seen and is on the north side of the mountain. The light blue arrows are rappels. Once on the face, occasional cairns will help guide the way.

August 31, 2003. Photo and editing by Alan Ellis.

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Diggler

Diggler - Apr 21, 2004 11:06 am - Voted 10/10

very informative

This is great for showing key parts of the climb. If I ever make it up there, I'll make sure this comes with me- thanks!

mrwsierra

mrwsierra - Apr 21, 2004 11:26 am - Hasn't voted

nice overlay

One of my favorite climbs ever, truly a glorious place. The route you outlined is perfect, this will be of use to future Granite climbers.

TYoung

TYoung - Nov 7, 2007 10:49 pm - Hasn't voted

perspective difficult

Pictures so often fall short of demonstrating scale and are only 2 dimensional, but I agree w/ Diggler-print this out and take it with you, you might find it helpful. Of the entire/hike climb this was the only REAL sphincter-tightening section...

mountaintopper

mountaintopper - Feb 20, 2008 2:41 pm - Voted 10/10

Question

I have a question about the rappel stations. What are they like. Has someone drilled something into the rock and if so, is it well made? Or do you have to bring slings and throw them around a piece of rock or something?

Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Feb 20, 2008 10:39 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Question

There are no fixed bolts or rap hardware drilled into the rock. The rap stations are established masses of slings tied around boulders and rocks. Bring a couple of unsewn slings and rap rings in case you don't like the way they look. I like to use the screw-links instead of rap rings because you can put a screw-link around the existing slings as well as your own.

PellucidWombat

PellucidWombat - Aug 24, 2009 2:37 pm - Hasn't voted

How does this match

Alan Ellis' photo of the south face? Is the "x" feature in this photo?

Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Aug 25, 2009 10:36 am - Hasn't voted

X Feature

The X feature is not in this photo. The part of the route with snow bridge and the X feature occurs BEFORE the south face section. Check out the complete route description for details.

Kifaru

Kifaru - Jun 24, 2011 8:25 pm - Hasn't voted

Rappels

How long are the rappels? In other words, what length of rope do you need? I'm thinking of using a rope secured with a locking carabiner on one side of the rappel ring or screw-link and a light pull cord to retrieve the rope. Any advice would be appreciated.

Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Jun 26, 2011 11:19 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Rappels

One 60-meter rope would be fine. Your method would work too. Good luck on your climb!

segoja - Feb 6, 2013 6:50 pm - Hasn't voted

Down Climbing

Anyone tried down climbing the route?

How tough is it to do so

Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Feb 18, 2013 8:41 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Down Climbing

It's down-climbed all the time. However, I wouldn't recommend it unless you have experience down-climbing low class 5 with lots of exposure. The class 4 sections between the snow bridge and the start of the route would also be tricky to down-climb. Rappelling definitely adds time to your day, but I was was glad I had a rope for the rappels.

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