Viewing: 1-20 of 35

eza - Jan 3, 2007 3:19 pm - Voted 10/10

Great idea

I like the idea, Jeroen. A little bit of Alpinist History, the kind of thing I like to read about. And a good choice of names also. Just one thing: I know he might be more of a "mythical" name than a "finest alpinist", but how about considering George Leigh Mallory for inclusion in your list? He had -at the very least- an important role in the early explorations of the Everest Massif before dying there in June 1924.

Jeroen Vels

Jeroen Vels - Jan 3, 2007 4:53 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Great idea

You are absolutely right and I will add him to the list. And there will be others also :-)

Thank's for your comment.


Herb - Jan 4, 2007 4:31 pm - Voted 10/10

Like your page

Hi Jeroen,

really cool idea!! And a big challenge at the same time.
It's just difficult to draw the line, who is on the list and who not? What about Peter Habeler, the first person to climb Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen in 1978 with Reinhold Messner? What about Anatoli Boukreev? Or Thomas Humar from Slovenia? What about Hans Kammerlander? Or Kurt Diemberger, who is the only remaining person alive that has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8.000 metres (Broad Peak 1957 / Dhaulagiri 1960; and he was the last person seeing Hermann Buhl alive on Chogolisa)?
And so on and so on...
They all influenced climbing or are still influencing it.
It is not easy to judge, but I believe your page will be a living document.

I suggest not to forget the female alpinists and I would recommend to add at least two:

Wanda Rutkiewicz from Poland (born in 1943, died 1992 on Kangchenjunga) - she was the 3rd woman on Mt. Everest (1st woman from Europe), 1st woman on K2, reached the summit of eight 8.000 m peaks, etc.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner from Austria (born in 1970)
Might become the first woman to climb all 8.000 m peaks (she already summitted 9 of them). I was on a tour to Elbrus with her last summer and she's an outstanding, cordial and inspiring person. Her expeditions up to now can be found here:
She lives together with Ralf Dujmovits, currently the best high-altitude climber from Germany (he could be on the list as well!).

Like to see your page growing.

Kind regards,

Sebastian Hamm

Sebastian Hamm - Jan 5, 2007 11:46 pm - Voted 10/10

Maybe some valuable persons

- Heinrich harrer
- Anderl Heckmair
- Catherine Destiville
- Cesare Maestri
- Franz and Toni Schmid
- Thomas Budendorfer
- Anatoli Boukreev
- Hans Kammerlander


desainme - Jan 7, 2007 5:06 am - Voted 10/10


Erhard Loretan(he and Jean Troilet glissaded the north side of Everest in hours)
1982 Nanga Parbat via Diamir, Gasherbrum I 1983,Gasherbrum II 1983, Broad Peak 1983,

1984 Manaslu and Annapurna 4 day traverse of east ridge
7/6/85 K2 Abruzzi Spur
8/30/86 Everest Northface/Hornbein
Dhaulagiri 1985 winter ascent east side
Cho Oyu 1990, Shishapangma 1990, Makalu 1991, Lhotse 1994, Kangchenjunga 1995.
Jeff Lowe
Guides too
Franz Lochmatter
Alex Burgener
Michel Croz
Jean Carrell (soloed Italian Ridge on Mte Cervino)

Jeroen Vels

Jeroen Vels - Jan 7, 2007 8:33 am - Hasn't voted

I see...

I still have a lot to do :-)

But... you guys could help me with providing a little bit more information. That way I can update the page a lot quicker.
Today is my sons fifth birhtday, so nothing much on this page will happen today ;-)


Ejnar Fjerdingstad

Ejnar Fjerdingstad - Jan 8, 2007 4:06 pm - Hasn't voted

How about

Alison Hargreaves? She died far too early, in her midthirties in a storm on K2, but she was the first woman to climb Everest alone and without oxygen. She also soloed some notable north faces such as Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses and Grosse Zinne/Cima Grande. And she set a very hard to beat record by climbing the Eiger north face seven months pregnant (together with a male climber).

Foxy Long Bottoms

Foxy Long Bottoms - Jan 18, 2007 7:22 pm - Hasn't voted

Charlie Fowler

. . .would make a nice and worthy addition to this page. Nice job by the way.

Ski Mountaineer

Ski Mountaineer - Jan 27, 2007 9:30 pm - Hasn't voted


the Abalakov brothers come to my mind.

(and the for me on of the greatest alpinist was Zaal Kikodze, but not so much for the alpinist, but the person he was. He inspired me more than any other climber; just for those here who knew him and remember him).

Damien Gildea

Damien Gildea - Jan 30, 2007 5:59 pm - Hasn't voted

Trango Women

Some task you have chosen, J. I think you will find that Sandrine de Choudens has also climbed Trango Tower, with her husband Antoine. Antoine was not well known but was probably the best climber in the world before he died on Shishapangma several years ago. Personally I think it's a joke to omit people like de Choudens and Loretan but include Twight !


Cy Kaicener

Cy Kaicener - Feb 16, 2007 5:51 pm - Hasn't voted

The finest alpinists

That is an excellent list Jeroen. Here is a link to expert climbers that might be of interest to you.

2skinners - Feb 18, 2007 7:38 am - Voted 10/10


This is a great idea. I like to read about the history of climbing and some of the great pioneers of the sport. Thank you for this page.


Diggler - Feb 23, 2007 10:31 pm - Hasn't voted

I'd add these:

* Messner (Reinhold- don't know how he got ommited)
* Erhard Loretan
* Steve House

Jeroen Vels

Jeroen Vels - Feb 24, 2007 3:49 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: I'd add these:

Messner is on my to do-list. You must have overlooked it :-) IMHO the greatest alpinist, ever.

I know Steve House, I would like to add him to my list. But I'm sorry to confess that I've never heard of Erhard Loretan. I read he's one of the few people to have climbed all of the 8000-ers. But maybe you can tell me why he's such a great climber?

Thanks for your help.



Diggler - Feb 25, 2007 6:39 am - Hasn't voted

Re: I'd add these:

He & Jean Troillet did Everest alpine-style in '86 (among other things- google him; check this out: I would recommend getting Himalaya Alpine Style by Stephan Venables. Great idea for a page & thanks!


BigLee - Apr 24, 2007 4:52 pm - Hasn't voted

Nice page

You might want to add that Messner was also the first person to solo Nanga Parbat in 1978. This was arguably his finest hour on NP since the Rupal attempt was siege-style.

I know I'm biased but Mick Fowler is up there with the best modern day Alpinists. Not one to chase conventional mountaineering milestones, there few people who have put up such technical mixed routes in such remote locations in such style as he has done over the years. Not many people repeat a Mick Fowler route!!!

You might also want to add Albert Mummery!


rickford - May 11, 2007 10:12 pm - Hasn't voted

Good Page!

There are perhaps endless suggestions... But I think you captured the very best, particularly the classics. Nevertheless...

I think Mick Fowler might be a nice addition.

I think Jeff Lowe certainly deserves a spot as well. (I am shocked that nobody has mention him.) He has made numerous FA's in Alaska and Peru. He also established (solo) what is considered the hardest route in the alps- 'Metanoia'(which is an A5 diretissma on the EigerNordWand). His name appears in every issue of Alpinist.

I look forward to following this page as time goes on. I think it will be a reall gem. Thank you for establishing it!


mvs - Aug 12, 2007 7:49 am - Voted 10/10

Really nice

Really nice page, thank you! I think Peter Croft really pushed the limits of rock climbing, especially as a soloist in Yosemite and remote Sierra peaks. It would be great to mention him.

Also further back in the past Hans Dülfer is really important. I hope to be able to help with this project in the future...really unique and special part of summitpost!


Andino - Sep 25, 2007 2:21 am - Voted 10/10

As far as...

the French climbers are concerned you could include Pierre Allain (the first to ascend the South Face of La Meije), René Desmaison (who did a lot of impressive winter first ascent) and Guido Magnone who was the first on Fitz Roy with Lionel Terray.


punj89 - Oct 12, 2007 2:49 pm - Hasn't voted


first of all ill say great page :)

you could always add Doug Scott and Dougal Haston

Viewing: 1-20 of 35
Return to 'The finest alpinists in the world' main page