The First Ascent On Mrzla Gora

The First Ascent On Mrzla Gora

Page Type Page Type: Article
Activities Activities: Mountaineering

The Story Of First Ascent

It is nowhere mentioned on the main page, but I find the question of who was the first man who ascended Mrzla gora / Kaltenberg very interesting. Please provide more information and evidence if you have...

Due to demanding ascent and so the fact that Mrzla gora was in 70-ies of 19th century still unconquered, it looks that a little competition evolved in that time. It was heard that locals were on the top of this nice mountain before, but any evidence was missing. The competition is seen in the fact that in 1876 and 1877 three groups attempted the first ascent. And the outcome is, that still today (2014) you can find different notes as of who was the first man on top. Wikipedia, for example, claims it was dr. Frischauf and his guides. Martin Fürnkranz, one of the most knowledgeable man of that area, clearly states it was Karl Blodig, a famous climber who was later the first to conquer all 4000-ers of European Alps.

In 1876 the first attempt to reach the suimmit of Mrzla gora was done by R. Lendlmayer, accompanied with the local guide Matijevec. But they were not successful. On August 2nd, 1877 from Savinjsko sedlo towards the summit of Mrzla gora Karl Blodig attempted. He was 18 years old at that time, and accompanied by a local guide, named Primož. But rain forced them to retreat from the mountain. But only two days later, so on August 4th, 1877, Karl Blodig reached the main SW ridge from the valley of Belska Kočne alone. It looks that he reached Frischauf-Scharte and then followed the ridge to the summit. Due to quite dense fog orientation on the summit was difficult. But he clearly claimed that towards the north he did not see quite in a distance no higher summit, so it holds that he must had been on the main summit.

And only three days later in a clear day the "local" conquerors of Grintovci stood on top. For dr. Johannes Frischauf, the great explorer of this group, Mrzla gora was one of the last summits, which he had reached by a new route. But it looks that he was not the first one. He came with the local guide J. Piskernik, farmer F. Matk and his shephard J. Bajde. They did make a great tour. Through Matkova krnica they first ascended Krnička gora, and from there the first three men continued over the unpleasant passage to Latvica high basin, and from there by a new route, going much norther than today's normal route, on top.

External Links

Martin Fürnkranz: STEINER und SANNTALER ALPEN.,%20Jezeratal,%20Logartal.pdf
Wikipedia: Mrzla gora.


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