The northeast face of the Flumes formation has a number of bolted routes on mostly pretty good rock. We sampled the following :
- Bits n Pieces (5.9) - two stars
- Kibbles and Bits (5.9) - one star
- Rebecca's Sailing (5.9) - two stars, can be combined with Kibbles and Bits for a two-pitch route
- Jumangi (5.10a) - one star
- Nipples and Knobs (5.10a) - two stars
- Cool Daze (5.8) - two stars : steep and sustained, like the guidebook says :)
Other routes listed for this formation include :
- Wet Paranoia (5.9 TR) - one star
- Tilting Terrace (5.8) - one star, fun (but short) first pitch, haven't done the second
- Adam's Apple (5.9) - one star
- Hunting Spiders (5.7)
- Lichen to Lead (5.6R)
Follow the approach instructions to Dos Equis
and the Destiny Wall, but instead of turning right and going up the hill, cross the footbridge over the creek (sixth bridge in the guidebook).
Just after the bridge, continue on the Balconies Cliff Trail (do not turn right towards the Balconies Caves Trail and Chockstone Dome
). Continue uphill on this trail past the second switchback.
A climber access sign will direct you to the left, marked "Tilting Terrace" (which is one of the routes on this formation). A short climber's trail should direct you to the crag.
Selected Route DescriptionsBits n Pieces
(5.9) -- leftmost bolted line on the formation, 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Note: in the guidebook this is actually called Bits n Pieces - Extension
Kibbles and Bits
(5.9) -- starts to the right of Bits n Pieces
, near a small bushy tree, 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
(5.9) -- starts from the anchor for Kibbles and Bits
, 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Makes for a nice two-pitch route. A little strenuous at the final overhang, but the book says you can do a 5.4 traverse right to avoid i, ending on another set of anchors a bit above the others.
(5.10a) -- starts to the right of Kibbles and Bits
, 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A little stiff and a committing start.
Nipples and Knobs
(5.10a) -- starts to the right of Jumangi
, 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The first bolt is shared by Tilting Terrace
, but you go right instead of left.
(5.8) -- starts from first belay of Tilting Terrace
(5.8), traverse across a small gully, then head straight up.
Descend all routes by rappel.
8 quickdraws, 60m rope
These routes are described in A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument
, Brad Young, 2007.
This area may be closed for raptor nesting, usually in January - July. Check the latest status on the NPS
website or the Friends of Pinnacles
External linksThe Flumes Formation