I agree that this is the most interesting pitch on the route, but I thought the many warnings of it being runout were over-hyped. I was able to get three bomber pieces in (stopper at the bottom, cam up about a third, and a slung chickenhead up about two thirds) and felt that it protected as well as anywhere else on the route.
True, the pro on this pitch is good but the last moves to the summit are on small edges and smears, not the jugs you’ve been pulling on since the start. It always strikes me as an abrupt change when compared to the rest of the climb.
I'd still say that it's a serious runout. The chickenhead, which is the last pro, is already 3 or more feet below the climber's shoes in the the photo and there is probably another 25 feet above him to the summit.
You must be a slabmaster, Andy! ; )
I guess my tolerance for runout must be relatively high :-)
I stuck a nut in just above Kiddy Car Ledge (out of the photo), I put a cam in the horizontal crack where it looks like you placed one also, and I slung the chickenhead that is just below the climber. That concentration of pro is a lot more than we placed anywhere else on the route.