Topo of the route.
The Geschweifter Kamin
("bent chimney") is a moderate yet adventurous route on the impressive South Wall of the Sas Ciampac. Rising from a prominent gully at the base of the wall, the route spans 450 meters along a natural line of chimney, ridge and face, ending at a broad notch 5 minutes walk from the summit.
First climbed in 1910 by E. Gerhards and A. Reither.
The pleasure of a late-fall day.
Approach the wall from a 4-5 car parking space on the east side of the Grödnerjoch (Grödner Pass), found at about the first switchback down from the pass (~2 minutes driving). Hike up a dirt road by a barn, and continue traversing the hillside eastward on trail signed for the Forcelles Schutzhütte. When right below the wall, leave the trail and hike up scree slopes below the prominent face (we found a cairn and path here).
The route begins in a prominent gully. Beware of stonefall in this gully, especially if parties are above on the route.
In the P1 chimney
- Pitch 1, IV, 25 m - climb a steep chimney, mostly on the right face to a 2 piton belay (pitons hidden in a notch above your head).
- Pitch 2, IV, 30 m - Escape the chimney to the right, belaying on a shoulder.
- Pitch 3, II, 35 m - Wander easy terrain up the ridge.
- Pitch 4, II, 25 m - Continue easily on the more well-defined ridge.
- Pitch 5, I, 45 m - Walk and scramble along the occasionally horizontal ridge to where terrain steepens (you might uprope and scramble pitches 3-5).
- Pitch 6, IV, 50 m - Climb enjoyable chimney and face. Many possibilities for route and protection.
- Pitch 7, IV, 40 m - Continue up the face to a ridge crest below the striking "3-cornered roof."
- Pitch 8, IV, 25 m - climb along the left side of the 3-cornered roof, clipping a fixed cam and a piton before a bend left and then up to a 3-piton belay. Fun pitch!
- Pitch 9, IV, 50 m - Climb a crack above the belay, then continue easy ground to belay before a prominent horizontal seam that splits the mountain.
- Pitch 10, III, 35 m - Traverse left back in to the base of a steep corner immediately right of the great chimney (last seen at the end of the first pitch!). A 2 piton belay station is here.
- Pitch 11, IV, 25 m - Climb up the corner and traverse left into the chimney. Climb it for a short distace to a level platform and belay. The traverse into the chimney feels a little sketchy. 2 pitons on the pitch.
- Pitch 12, IV+, 30 m - climb the vertical chimney, mostly on the right face. This crux pitch feels quite sustained. A fixed nut, piton and ancient wooden block decorate the vertical section. Beyond the difficulties, travel easy ground up and left to a striking cave belay.
- Pitch 13, III+, 50 m - Escape the cave on the left (icy), then climb along the edge of a loose scree gully to a belay from slung rocks. Unrope and walk easily to the summit.
Climbing around the "3-cornered Roof"
From the summit, follow a trail west to the Crespeina-Joch at 2528 meters. Go down then back up to the Cir-Joch (2466 meters). Then down to the Clarkhütte, and easily back to your car or the Grödnerjoch.
A rack of nuts and cams to #3 Camelot. Double ropes would be handy for retreat. Bring plenty of slings. The descent may be snowy, depending on the time of year, so it's a good idea to bring gloves and thick socks, especially if you plan to wear tennis shoes for the way down.