The Green Gully is one of the most well-known classics of North America. It was once the only two-page photo featured in Yvon Chouinard's Climbing Ice
From the Pine Creek trailhead, follow the trail half a mile to the bridge, where the climb comes into view ahead on the right. Continue a quarter mile to where both the Green and Blue Gullies can be seen. Look for tracks heading off the trail shortly after the Wilderness Boundary sign. Follow the tracks, or make your own, and cross the river. Head up the large talus field or snow field, depending on the time of year, to the base of the climb. The Green Gully is the Larger one on the right, and is easily distinguished by its green colour. Plan on 45 minutes to an hour for the approach.
Route DescriptionThe Green Gully
: WI4 60m
FA: Pat Callis and Jim Kanzler - February 1971
The route used to be done in two pitches, however with modern 60m ropes it can be done in one. Take the route of least resistance up the wall, the easiest starting on the left. If you choose to do the route in two pitches, there is a belay station of slings around a tree on the right side, though many times the ice does not reach it and drytooling is required to reach it. Near the top, the climb usually becomes WI3+ on the left, or you can choose to climb the WI4+-5 curtain on the right. Belay and rappel at fixed bolts on the right. Two ropes are required to rappel the route, or you will need to V-thread halfway down for a second rappel.
There is avalanche danger from above. Make sure snow conditions are bomber before heading to this climb.
Ice screws are all that are needed, unless climbing in early or late season conditions. Take as many as you feel you need, usually around 10.