The Gun Club (5.6-5.12b)

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Nevada, United States, North America
Activities:
Sport Climbing, Toprope
Season:
Spring, Fall, Winter
Elevation:
3100 ft / 945 m
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74.01% Score
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The Gun Club (5.6-5.12b)
Created On: Jun 27, 2016
Last Edited On: Jun 29, 2016

Overview

North Wall
North Wall
If Red Rock is too busy, time is limited and you need a super-short approach, or if you're just looking for a change of rock type, the Gun Club is going to make you happy. Unless you hate bleeding, that is, for the rock is a sharp limestone. Even if you don't bang a knee or elbow and rip it open, your fingers are going to hate you after a few climbs here, and if you're going to climb here often, don't use your favorite shoes unless you like replacing them monthly.

Although there are a few lines that look leadable (with suspect rock quality), it's strictly sport climbing here, with most routes nicely bolted, meaning you usually don't have to go in terror until clipping the first bolt.

Many of the anchors are dual cold shunts or a pair of something looking like a fat, non-locking biner (I'm sure there's a name, but I don't know it), making lowering and rappelling easy.

Routes tend to be about 40'.

I get the sense that despite the easy access and the good bolting that seems to be the norm, this place doesn't get too crowded. During spring break, I visited this spot three separate times and never saw another climber.

Bolt En Route
Bolt En Route

Getting There

From 215 on the west side of Vegas, take the West Cheyenne/Cliff Shadows Parkway exit and head west. The road quickly bends north. Before its intersection with Alexander Rd., turn left onto a dirt road and drive for a few seconds to a parking area. Take an obvious trail leading into a canyon with two parallel walls. Once in the canyon, you can head along a trail following either wall, and you'll soon start seeing bolted lines.

Routes

The North Wall (faces south) has a few more lines and more moderates. The South Wall (facing north) is harder overall, though both walls have at least one 5.8 and at least one 5.12. The route lists come from comments on Mountain Project by a local climber; he admits that the names in quotes are ones he just made up. Routes in bold are ones I have climbed.

North Wall 1
North Wall 1

North Wall 2
North Wall 2


I only led up to a 10a out here, but the lines I led all seemed a little easy for the grade. However, that could have been due to the fact that most of them were well-bolted and had good clipping stances beneath the harder moves. 

North Wall

From right to left as you walk along the crag from the parking area:
  • "A Traverse" 5.7-- Very awkward with the bolt placements, and very difficult to clean on rappel after solo-leading it. What looked like a fun and easy way to end the day turned out to be a real pain in the ass.
  • Staring Down the Barrel 5.11c 
  • Friendly Fire 5.11d 
  • Clay Pigeon 5.11a 
  • Under Cover 5.11b 
  • "Retro-Bolted Corner" 5.9 
  • "Bolt Gun" 5.12a
  • #17 5.11d 
  • Muzzle Loader 5.12a
  • Rock Salt 5.11c 
  • Point Blank 5.11b 
  • Ricochet 5.11b 
  • Pistol Whipped 5.10a 
  • Misfire 5.9 
  • Quick Draw 5.8 
  • Bushmaster 5.8 
  • Trigger Happy 5.6 
  • FN Five-seveN 5.7 
  • Twin Weapons of Mass Distraction 5.10a-- The only 5.10 move is pulling the overhang at the top, but the clip is easy to do. The first bolt is a bit high compared to most other routes here, but the climbing to it is easy, maybe 5.6ish. 
  • Mini-Gun 5.6 
Mini-Gun (5.6) and Twin Weapons of Mass Distraction (10a)
Mini-Gun (5.6) and Twin Weapons of Mass Distraction (10a)

Mini-Gun (5.6) and Twin Weapons of Mass Distraction (10a) and FN Five-seveN (5.7)
Mini-Gun (5.6) and Twin Weapons of Mass Distraction (10a) and FN Five-seveN (5.7)

Trigger Happy (5.6) and Bushmaster (5.8)
Trigger Happy (5.6) and Bushmaster (5.8)

Misfire (5.9)
Misfire (5.9)


South Wall

From left to right as you walk along the crag from the parking area:
  • "Unknown Face" 5.11b 
  • Marksman 5.12b
  • Skeet Surfin' 5.10c
  • Gun Shy 5.11b 
  • Sharpshooter 5.11b 
  • Sharkstooth 5.11b
  • Under Fire 5.10a
  • Bolting Without A Permit 5.10c 
  • "7" 5.10d
  • "Unknown Corner" 5.10a
  • "Unknown Face2" 5.11c/d
  • Slingblade 5.12b
  • Pot Shot 5.11d
  • High Caliber 5.12a 
  • Small Arms 5.8+ 
  • Sharpest Shot 5.9-- very sharp rock! 
  • Young Guns 5.10b 
South Wall
South Wall

South Wall
South Wall

South Wall-- Sharpest Shot (5.9)
South Wall-- Sharpest Shot (5.9)


Red Tape

None other than watching out for private property, as there always is some kind of construction going on in the area.

I am not sure who manages this land, whether it's BLM, the state, or the city or county.

When to Climb

Spring, fall, and winter. Summers can be okay if you show up early or late and climb on the shaded side of the canyon.

Camping

None available.