The infamous traverse near...

The infamous traverse near the red saddle on Mt. Jefferson. Having inconveniently left my crampons and ice axe at home, I chickened out here.


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woozler30 - Aug 2, 2004 9:02 pm - Voted 10/10


any advice on the easiest safest way to do the infamous traverse. ? any info much appreciated. im trying to get some momentum to get up there soon and could use some advice.

Don Nelsen

Don Nelsen - Aug 8, 2004 9:18 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: jeff


I'm not really the guy to ask since I was climbing alone without any gear when I attempted Jefferson and chickened out at the point the photo was taken. (camera on automatic - most of my shots since I almost always do it solo) Anyway, beyond the traverse in the photo, there is even more to cross on the other side of the rock outcrop on the left. I understand that once you have gained the north side, it's a 4th class scramble/rock climb to the summit. But since you asked: I would anchor a rope with an ice screw and carefully attempt this with crampons and ice axe. The exposure is sobering so you need to be very confident with self arrest techniques, etc. People have died on this route. Please get response from an experienced Jefferson summiter before you attempt it.

Best regards,


Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - May 1, 2005 11:11 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: jeff

Hey Don, Dennis was in the group I climbed Jeff with. We had nice kicked in steps all the way over from a party the day before but we still protected it with 4 pickets on a running belay. It was not bad but had it been icy or nasty, to fall there is not a good thing. Conditions may change from year to year but it was not much farther around the ridge in your photo to where the snow stopped. After that, we all thought the scramble to the summit was 3rd class (if you go the correct way -- keep heading left (north) to the ridge and then find the easy 3rd class stuff back up south). Much easier than I thought. But yeah, I liked having the pickets banged in for the traverse.

Dennis Poulin

Dennis Poulin - Apr 28, 2005 12:23 pm - Hasn't voted

Good place to Chicken out.

This is a good place to "chicken" out. "Chicken" is used here is defined as wise, prudent, and knowledgable. Just downhill from here is certain death.

Don Nelsen

Don Nelsen - May 1, 2005 8:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Good place to Chicken out.

Thanks for the comment Dennis. This spot has about the highest "pucker factor" I've experienced. I see from your summit logs that you have summited Jefferson and I congratutate you!

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