The initial approach gully for the East Ridge at circa 6,800 ft near the toe of the unnamed south cirque glacier. The first gully is merely scrambling either side of a stream. It leads to a snowfield. The snowfield is climbed either up and left to a narrow gully (probably Class 4 step unless snow-filled) or up and right to a steep hollow (possible schrund problem late in the season). We went rightward. We rappeled into this hollow on the return. Forbidden's summit is a top-left-center. July 23, 2005.
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