The initial approach gully...

The initial approach gully for the East Ridge at circa 6,800 ft near the toe of the unnamed south cirque glacier. The first gully is merely scrambling either side of a stream. It leads to a snowfield. The snowfield is climbed either up and left to a narrow gully (probably Class 4 step unless snow-filled) or up and right to a steep hollow (possible schrund problem late in the season). We went rightward. We rappeled into this hollow on the return. Forbidden's summit is a top-left-center. July 23, 2005.


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