Quite a trip you had up there! I am going to Peru in the summer 2013, excited about it!
Thanks. It was great to be climbing in Peru!
Do you have a plan yet?
Yeah, we want to go for 2 month and do a bunch of climbing. Whatever we feel like at the moment mostly. But we have a few that we really want to get on. Since Alpamayo is beautiful we want to do that. Climbs we hope we gonna do are (we are not sure if we are good enough for them yet) Cayesh and Chacraraju Este via Jager route. There are a few more that sound really intimidating, but would be super cool if we did them. Hope they sell a lot of webbing out there :)
Sounds like an excellent plan, especially having 2 months!
Personally, I had Alpamayo pretty low on my list, because too many climbers go up there that shouldn't. With people above me on steep ice and snow, there is always the risk they dislodge something. With experienced climbers there is still a risk, but I expect them to be careful. Less experienced climbers often simply don't realize what they might cause by accidentally kicking loose a chunk of ice. People have died on Alpamayo because of this!
That said, if you're lucky enough to be the only team on the mountain, I think it would be a great experience. I considered going to base camp, see who else might be there, and only climb Alpamayo if it was very quiet and go for Quitaraju otherwise. Should Alpamayo then be quiet the next morning, we could make an attempt after all, otherwise go back down.
As for climbing gear, I suggest to bring everything along. There are some small climbing stores in Huaraz, but the selection is pretty thin. Although I must admit that a bit of webbing that you intend to leave on the mountain when rappelling shouldn't prove hard to find. The one thing in ample supply is snow stakes, which you can simply order in one of the many hardware stores. You'll need that when you try Chacraraju Este. Way, way too hard for me I must say. I've looked at it in awe, but that's all!
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this, especially since Tocllaraju is on my tick list. I've been looking at the West Face Direct, though it's maybe too ambitious. Sounds like the route you took was a lot of fun. What snow anchors were in place on your descent?
Tocllaraju was a very fine ascent indeed, I really recommend it. As for the anchors, I only clearly remember them from where we left the NW ridge on our descent. I don't recall where the others where. You can't count on them already being there anyway, so, if you want anchors, you have to bring some yourself. You can have them made cheaply in Huaraz.
The West Face looked out of condition in 2011. There was a bit more bare rock than what I had seen in older photo's, and some pretty threatening stuff hanging high above the route. You can see it on the panorama picture near the bottom of the report. And if that picture still isn't big enough, have a look at the original.
Beautiful mountain and pictures.
It is interesting for me to imagine that I would have chosen the same route, based on the perspective of the pictures.
As you can see, the weather was fabulous, we had a trail we could follow, and even if there wasn't, we had pretty decent route descriptions. So, apart from the two hiccups in determining where to cross the bergschrund and that crevasse high up on the ridge, route finding was easy.
That said, if we wouldn't have any of that, I think that the NW ridge is one of two routes I might have considered - the other being the S ridge.
super read and images! peru seems to be the holy grail of big places. excellent, kudos! the new SP formatting works well.
Thanks. Peru rocks!
both: pictures and the story
Thanks. Cheers, Rob
I agree. The slope after the first 'shrund was tougher than the final headwall. Great report.
Thanks. I had read your own report a while ago, and that sure brought back memories. Looks like you had a fine adventure too!
That looks like a great climb. Great job on all of these TRs and photos! We may go in Aug. to do Yana/Chopi with a big trek before.
Thanks. Good luck in August, I'm already looking forward to your TR.
I had a brief look at this one a while back but reading your very latest (Part VII) reminded me that I hadn't read it in full - and it's another great instalment to this amazing series - how many more have you got up your sleeve?
Thanks Mark. After I got home from Peru, I postponed writing about it for a long time, because it was so much. I had kept a journal, but still didn't know where to start, what to tell and what to skip. So, I first only posted the photos, postponing the decision.
One year later, when I finally started writing, I didn't realize the series would grow this big. It only gradually dawned on me by the time I had written the first few parts. Currently, the prognosis is that there will be twelve installments altogether, so you'll have something to read for the next couple of months.