Just awesome, Josh! I saw Jack Mtn from the road last year and wondered how people reached Washington's 14th highest peak. There just weren't any easy roads leading to the base. I spent some time on Goggle Earth looking over your route. And yes, it sucks to sleep in a tent and await nicer weather!
Thanks Bill. There are no easy ways to the bottom of this mountain. Especially making it to the top. As for the waiting, at least we had music and fun conversations. It would have been a lot worse if I was solo during that part of the trip.
One of these days I'll have to get one. We were never "lost". We just kinda didn't know exactly where we were for a short amount of time. GPS or not we still would have had to bivy due to how tiring it was.
It looks like this trip report has been greatly overlooked, thus far, which is really unfortunate. Jack Mountain is considered one of the more difficult and least climbed Top 100 peaks in Washington, due to its long routes, confusing terrain, sketchy slopes, and unpredictable snow conditions and weather.
Thanks Redwic. A lot of times my work goes noticed many days after it's posted. But even if only a few people enjoyed the trip report, it was certainly worth writing. This mountain certainly has some surprises, I am thankful to have been here in nearly perfect conditions.
Out of curiosity...
-> What level of difficulty would you rank this climb as?
-> What was the steepest angle of snow you had to climb?
(Some of your photos imply much steepness...)
I would rank this peak as "Difficult". Doable, but much harder than Rainier. I had minor cramps on the way down which I had to be careful of how I kicked in the steps. Fortunately we found flowing water which I was able to recover. This hardly slowed us down. Speed is definitely important on this mountain. Slower folks should camp right below the South Face to create as much time as possible on summit day.
Thanks Joel. I've seen a lot of dangers in my time. But the good news is that I'm learning new things every trip and some of the lessons learned are paying off in a very positive fashion. But sometimes things come up unexpectedly. So we have to hope for the best and prepare for the worst.
your account on the bad rock and scary class 4 brought back too vivid memories of a similar experience on nearby Sentinel Peak. We went up a 3rd class that led to 4th class gulley and it became apparent as the rock transitioned from typical cascade loose to compacted dirt gravel that we were not going down the same way. We had left our packs lower, had no rope, and did not know if there was another way off it. Gotta love the committed feeling! We too were not uncomfortable on that terrain, as you noted. It's because you can't afford to be nervous: that kills you.
billisfree - Aug 5, 2012 5:36 am - Hasn't voted
AwesomeJust awesome, Josh! I saw Jack Mtn from the road last year and wondered how people reached Washington's 14th highest peak. There just weren't any easy roads leading to the base. I spent some time on Goggle Earth looking over your route. And yes, it sucks to sleep in a tent and await nicer weather!
Josh Lewis - Aug 11, 2012 5:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: AwesomeThanks Bill. There are no easy ways to the bottom of this mountain. Especially making it to the top. As for the waiting, at least we had music and fun conversations. It would have been a lot worse if I was solo during that part of the trip.
billisfree - Aug 5, 2012 7:18 am - Hasn't voted
gpsFor heavens sakes, Josh, get a GPS! It's saved my butt more than once!
Josh Lewis - Aug 11, 2012 5:29 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: gpsOne of these days I'll have to get one. We were never "lost". We just kinda didn't know exactly where we were for a short amount of time. GPS or not we still would have had to bivy due to how tiring it was.
EastKing - Aug 6, 2012 11:39 am - Voted 10/10
Great TR..and pics!!!! Amazing adventure!
Josh Lewis - Aug 17, 2012 6:51 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Great TR..Thanks Eastking! We wanted an exciting adventure. We got more than we wanted. But it was definitely an amazing experience.
Redwic - Aug 7, 2012 3:26 pm - Voted 10/10
Great Peak & TRIt looks like this trip report has been greatly overlooked, thus far, which is really unfortunate. Jack Mountain is considered one of the more difficult and least climbed Top 100 peaks in Washington, due to its long routes, confusing terrain, sketchy slopes, and unpredictable snow conditions and weather.
Good job!
Josh Lewis - Aug 17, 2012 6:54 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Great Peak & TRThanks Redwic. A lot of times my work goes noticed many days after it's posted. But even if only a few people enjoyed the trip report, it was certainly worth writing. This mountain certainly has some surprises, I am thankful to have been here in nearly perfect conditions.
Redwic - Aug 7, 2012 3:30 pm - Voted 10/10
Difficulty Level?Out of curiosity...
-> What level of difficulty would you rank this climb as?
-> What was the steepest angle of snow you had to climb?
(Some of your photos imply much steepness...)
YEM - Aug 11, 2012 4:13 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Difficulty Level?The a lot of the final snowfield was over 50 degrees. The rock was loose class 3 with a short section of class 4. Plenty of exposure.
Josh Lewis - Aug 17, 2012 7:01 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Difficulty Level?I would rank this peak as "Difficult". Doable, but much harder than Rainier. I had minor cramps on the way down which I had to be careful of how I kicked in the steps. Fortunately we found flowing water which I was able to recover. This hardly slowed us down. Speed is definitely important on this mountain. Slower folks should camp right below the South Face to create as much time as possible on summit day.
YEM - Aug 11, 2012 4:14 am - Voted 10/10
ThanksFor another great trip report!
Josh Lewis - Aug 17, 2012 7:03 am - Hasn't voted
Re: ThanksSure thing Yem. Thanks for driving, providing music at camp, and being a great partner on the trip.
MoapaPk - Aug 12, 2012 12:24 pm - Voted 10/10
very coolGreat dynamic map. What boots did you wear?
Josh Lewis - Aug 17, 2012 7:04 am - Hasn't voted
Re: very coolThanks MoapaPK! Glad you liked the map. As for the boots, I wore "Asolo AFS Evoluzione" plastic boots.
Snidely Whiplash - Aug 12, 2012 11:34 pm - Voted 10/10
Hellof an accomplishment! One of the great Northwest alpine achievements I've seen here on Summit Post ever. Beautiful pictures and well done!
Josh Lewis - Aug 17, 2012 7:07 am - Hasn't voted
Re: HellThanks etsnyd! Perhaps one of these days I'll see you on the trails in the Cascades. I very much appreciate your comment.
JoelSkok - Aug 16, 2012 5:06 pm - Voted 10/10
Simply could notput it down Josh, especially the harrowing part on the cliffy terrain, your rope not quite reaching to the ledge. Your storytelling is first class.
Josh Lewis - Aug 17, 2012 7:11 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Simply could notThanks Joel. I've seen a lot of dangers in my time. But the good news is that I'm learning new things every trip and some of the lessons learned are paying off in a very positive fashion. But sometimes things come up unexpectedly. So we have to hope for the best and prepare for the worst.
Aaron Dyer - Aug 16, 2012 7:42 pm - Hasn't voted
rock qualityyour account on the bad rock and scary class 4 brought back too vivid memories of a similar experience on nearby Sentinel Peak. We went up a 3rd class that led to 4th class gulley and it became apparent as the rock transitioned from typical cascade loose to compacted dirt gravel that we were not going down the same way. We had left our packs lower, had no rope, and did not know if there was another way off it. Gotta love the committed feeling! We too were not uncomfortable on that terrain, as you noted. It's because you can't afford to be nervous: that kills you.