Just awesome, Josh! I saw Jack Mtn from the road last year and wondered how people reached Washington's 14th highest peak. There just weren't any easy roads leading to the base. I spent some time on Goggle Earth looking over your route. And yes, it sucks to sleep in a tent and await nicer weather!
Thanks Bill. There are no easy ways to the bottom of this mountain. Especially making it to the top. As for the waiting, at least we had music and fun conversations. It would have been a lot worse if I was solo during that part of the trip.
For heavens sakes, Josh, get a GPS! It's saved my butt more than once!
One of these days I'll have to get one. We were never "lost". We just kinda didn't know exactly where we were for a short amount of time. GPS or not we still would have had to bivy due to how tiring it was.
and pics!!!! Amazing adventure!
Thanks Eastking! We wanted an exciting adventure. We got more than we wanted. But it was definitely an amazing experience.
It looks like this trip report has been greatly overlooked, thus far, which is really unfortunate. Jack Mountain is considered one of the more difficult and least climbed Top 100 peaks in Washington, due to its long routes, confusing terrain, sketchy slopes, and unpredictable snow conditions and weather.
Thanks Redwic. A lot of times my work goes noticed many days after it's posted. But even if only a few people enjoyed the trip report, it was certainly worth writing. This mountain certainly has some surprises, I am thankful to have been here in nearly perfect conditions.
Out of curiosity...
-> What level of difficulty would you rank this climb as?
-> What was the steepest angle of snow you had to climb?
(Some of your photos imply much steepness...)
The a lot of the final snowfield was over 50 degrees. The rock was loose class 3 with a short section of class 4. Plenty of exposure.
I would rank this peak as "Difficult". Doable, but much harder than Rainier. I had minor cramps on the way down which I had to be careful of how I kicked in the steps. Fortunately we found flowing water which I was able to recover. This hardly slowed us down. Speed is definitely important on this mountain. Slower folks should camp right below the South Face to create as much time as possible on summit day.
For another great trip report!
Sure thing Yem. Thanks for driving, providing music at camp, and being a great partner on the trip.
Great dynamic map. What boots did you wear?
Thanks MoapaPK! Glad you liked the map. As for the boots, I wore "Asolo AFS Evoluzione" plastic boots.
of an accomplishment! One of the great Northwest alpine achievements I've seen here on Summit Post ever. Beautiful pictures and well done!
Thanks etsnyd! Perhaps one of these days I'll see you on the trails in the Cascades. I very much appreciate your comment.
put it down Josh, especially the harrowing part on the cliffy terrain, your rope not quite reaching to the ledge. Your storytelling is first class.
Thanks Joel. I've seen a lot of dangers in my time. But the good news is that I'm learning new things every trip and some of the lessons learned are paying off in a very positive fashion. But sometimes things come up unexpectedly. So we have to hope for the best and prepare for the worst.
your account on the bad rock and scary class 4 brought back too vivid memories of a similar experience on nearby Sentinel Peak. We went up a 3rd class that led to 4th class gulley and it became apparent as the rock transitioned from typical cascade loose to compacted dirt gravel that we were not going down the same way. We had left our packs lower, had no rope, and did not know if there was another way off it. Gotta love the committed feeling! We too were not uncomfortable on that terrain, as you noted. It's because you can't afford to be nervous: that kills you.