The Line

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
5.9

Route Quality: 10 Votes

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Page By:
The Line
Created On: Jun 20, 2004
Last Edited On: Dec 13, 2007

Approach

Follow the trail from the parking lot to the East Wall. When you get to the wall go to the right until you get to a vertical crack going from the bottom to the top of the wall. That's The Line.

Route Description

The Line is one of the best climbs at Lovers Leap. It follows a plumb crack in the center of the East Wall. Its classic nature ensures that, unless you start early, you can expect to see many climbers on this route.
While frequently climbed in 3 pitches, it's possible to climb it in 2 pitches with a 60 meter rope. There is a tree at the top that is used for the anchor, but if your rope is shorter than 60 meters you won't be able to reach it.

The first pitch is the crux pitch.The 5.9 crux is approximately 20 feet above the ground, & is the first logical place to put in pro'. A bomber nut placement can be backed up by a smallish cam' (.3 Camalot?), if the climber is 6' or taller, & hunts around for the crack. The remainder of the pitch is stimulating, well protected, and extremely enjoyable. The belay stance at the end of the first pitch is small & uncomfortable; you'll likely be hanging on your gear. You'll see 2 bolts at the end of another route to your right - that's the end of the first pitch on The Line. If you're planning to climb it in 2 pitches try to set up your belay as high as possible. This will make it easier to reach the tree on the top of the climb.

THe second pitch, 5.8, is also enjoyable though not quite as sustained.

The climb's finish is exciting, featuring an enormous, unlikely looking 5.8 roof. While intimidating, it has good, positive holds.

From the top walk down on the trail to the left.

Essential Gear

2 sets of nuts, .6 -3" cams (2 each)

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.