2012 solo along with the Lookout
Weather (a low, wet, cloudy system that moved in quick with very low visibility) and a HUGE rockfall on the route conspired to keep us from the summit this day. We'll return and bag'em both some day, today just wasn't the right day.
With Moni. First recorded ascent of the peak since 2007.
What we perceived from the guidebook as the regular route definitely NOT 4th class and very hard to protect. Followed a more traversing line across the south face that could be protected.
9.5 hours from the curve on Abandon Creek and back.
Trail from Abandon Creek to basin has lots of windfall - easy to lose the trail and a pain to get around.
Started to take the saddle between the summits (from the north) but a slide changed our minds so we travered to the NE ridge then followed a narrow ledge to the east face. 4th with a move or two of low 5th led to a wet and dirty slanting shelf - a few moves up a corner led to easier ground but without a rope and after a tentative attempt and a slip, it'll have to wait for another (drier) day....and a short rope. We'll be back. The approach is a grind - 3600' in 8.5 miles. 6 hrs RT.
A huge mistake in Tom Lopez's guidebook cost us 1.5 hours and thus the time to climb both summits. It's a pretty place with lots of opportunites for routes of difficulties, but it's a grunt to get into the basin. 9.5 hours car to car.