Led the final 4 pitches again, we took a #5 and #6 because we were climbing the Dodger after....but yet again, not necessary on this route if competent at the grade. I still say that 4th pitch is 5.10 all day long (vs 5.9) and I climb a lot of 5.10 desert off-width. If you like this cross over on top you have to do Oak Creek Spire...it is much more entertaining. Double 70's get you to the ground from the middle tower.
I led the odd pitches and my friend Casey led the even ones. Pitch 3 gave me alot of trouble for some reason. Having the #5 was really nice in that section. Pitch 4 was rough too even though I was following. The step across was scary. Awesome climb! It is a full body work out for sure! You gotta be cool with shoving your body in ow's in order to do this climb. Take the #5!
lol, if I had read Radek's description of p4 ahead of time I prob would have just aided it...but just kept telling myself 5.9+ and got it...funny how less beta makes you try harder sometimes....it is cruxy for about 2-3m...never read anything about the route and my partner was a local from Flag looking for a different climb so we only took to 4". It actually works though..you get a bomber 3" deep in (double sling it) versus having to rely on the spinner hanger on P4 covering the exposed crux move. Led that step over to the next tower as well, since my partner had done all of it before....neat wicked little tower climb. First climb in Sedona. Out for more today.
my first long trad route in sedona. Free and clean. Vortex power had me beaming with joy.
Super windy day. The OW on P4 went at A0 for us too. Lives up to the hype, a great route. Climbed with Todd Hinrichsen.
FUN climbing on some very clean and solid sandstone. The step across on the last pitch makes this unforgettable. The 5.9+ OW on P4 is way (A0) hard. TR of trip.