The main routes of Monte Bianco ("Satellites") and other

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Aosta Valley/France/Chamonix, Italy, Europe
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The main routes of Monte Bianco (
Created On: Mar 1, 2016
Last Edited On: Feb 18, 2018

Overview

- The main routes of Monte Bianco ("Satellites": M. Maudit - M. B. du Tacul - D. du Goûter - A. Bionnassay - A. Blanche de Peuterey - Grand Pilier d'Angle) -


This second part includes all that is the close district of Mont Blanc, or its numerous "Satellites" to reach Westward the Aiguille de Bionnassay, in South various Summit placed on the Ridges of Brouillard, Innominata, Péuterey, while those in the North on the slopes of Mont Maudit like to reach the Tour Ronde or the furthest reaches Mont Blanc de Tacul. A number of important Summit as Punta Martino Baretti, Pic Eccles, Innominata, Aiguilles Jean Joseph Croux, Blanche, Noire etc., who with their crests and walls have marked the development of Mountaineering in the period of 230 years. Often were as a starting point towards the conquest of the same or of the great and red pylons as the Piliers du Brouillard Freney, the adjacent Grand Pilier d'Angle and glacial routes of Brenva ("Eperon or Via Moore 1865 Sentinella Rossa, Major, Poire"). A Legend spanning various periods: the early conquests in '800 with the exploits of the legendary Emilio Rey, the Twenties and Thirties with the routes of T. Graham Brown Renato Chabod in ice and Paul Preuss, Amilcare Crétier, Adolphe Rey, Brendel-Schaller, Arthur Ottoz, Gabriele Boccalatte, Giusto Gervasutti, Ratti-Vitale in the rock and to the great tragedy with misfortune and the death of four including Andrea Oggioni, Kohlmann, Guillaume, Vieille on "Pilone Centrale" of July 1961, involving Walter Bonatti Pierre Mazeaud. But it is a limited list, almost sterile and offensive, because for one who cite at least ten are neglected, especially among the Guides, as Laurent Croux, who laid the foundations of this exploit fot to arrive to the successes on the same by Christian Bonington with Donald Whillans, John Clough, Jan Duglosz, René Desmaison, Pierre Julien, Ignazio Piussi, Yves Pollet-Villard in August of the same year.

Questa seconda parte comprende tutto ciò che risulta lo stretto circondario del Monte Bianco, ovvero i suoi numerosi "Satelliti" fino a raggiungere verso Ovest l'Aiguille de Bionnassay, a Sud le varie Sommità poste sulle Creste del Brouillard, Innominata e Péuterey mentre a Settentrione quelle alle pendici del Mont Maudit come la Tour Ronde insino ad arrivare alle propaggini estreme del Mont Blanc de Tacul. Una serie di Sommità importanti come Punta Martino Baretti, Pic Eccles, Innominata, Aiguilles Croux, Blanche e Noire ecc., che con le loro creste e pareti hanno segnato lo sviluppo dell'Alpinismo nel periodo di 230 anni. Spesso son risultate come punti di partenza verso la conquista delle medesime oppure dei grandi e rossi Piloni del Brouillard e Piliers du Freney, dell'adiacente Grand Pilier d'Angle e delle vie glaciali della Brenva ("Sperone o Via Moore 1865, Sentinella Rossa, Major, Poire"). Una Leggenda che attraversa vari periodi: dalle prime conquiste nell'800 con gli exploits del mitico Emilio Rey, agli Anni Venti e Trenta con le vie di T. Graham Brown e Renato Chabod in ghiaccio e di Paul Preuss, Amilcare Crétier, Adolphe Rey, Brendel-Schaller, Arthur Ottoz, Gabriele Boccalatte, Giusto Gervasutti e Ratti-Vitale in roccia e fino alla grande tragedia con disgrazia e la morte di quattro tra i quali Andrea Oggioni sul "Pilone Centrale" del Luglio 1961, coinvolgente Walter Bonatti e Pierre Mazeaud giungendo al successo sul medesimo da parte di Chris Bonington con Donald Whillans, John Clough, Jan Duglosz, René Desmaison, Pierre Julien, Ignazio Piussi, Yves Pollet-Villard nell'Agosto dello stesso anno. Ma é un elenco limitato, quasi sterile ed offensivo, perché per uno che citiamo almeno dieci vengono trascurati, soprattutto tra le ottime Guide, come Laurent Croux, che hanno posto i cardini di questi exploits.

First Ascents

Mont Maudit (4.468m):
  • Henry Seymour Hoare, William Edward Davidson and mountain guide Johann Jaun, Johann von Bergen, (Sep 12th, 1878).
Mont Blanc du Tacul (4.248m):
  • Charles Hudson, (Aug 08th, 1855).
Triangle du Tacul (3.970m):
  • André Contamine, Pierre Labrunie, Jacques Martin and Maurice Negri, (Aug 05th, 1962).
Dôme du Goûter (4.308m):
  • Jean Nicolas Couteran, François Paccard, Michel Paccard and Victor Tissai, (Jul 14th, 1775).
Aiguille de Bionnassay (4.052m):
  • E.N. Buxton, F.C. Grove, R.J.S. MacDonald and mountain guide, Jean-Pierre Cachat, Michel Payot, (Jul 28th, 1865).
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4.112m):
  • Émile Rey, Ambros Supersaxo, Alois Andenmatten and H. Seymour King, (Jul 31th, 1885).
Grand Pilier d'Angle (4.243m):
  • Walter Bonatti, (Aug 03th, 1957).
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3.773m):
  • Lord Wentworth, Émile Rey and Jean Baptiste Bich, (Aug 05th, 1877).
Tour Ronde (3.792m):
  • J.H. Backhouse, T.H. Carson, Douglas William Freshfield, C.C. Tucker, Daniel Balleys e Michel Payot, (Jul 22th, 1867).
Grand Capucin (3.838m):
  • Adolphe Rey, Henry Rey, Louis Lainier and Enrico Augusto, (Jul 24th, 1924).

Route Description

Main important climbs.

Principali importanti salite.

 
The Mont Maudit

Route Description

    Mont Maudit (4.468m) Brenva side

    BLUE= Via Bonnet d'âne: Patrick Gabarrou and Francois Marsigny, (Feb 22th, 1988). Difficulty TD+ Length: 700m.
    PINK= Country-couloir: Ruedi Beglinger and John Fantini, (Aug 04th, 1979). Difficulty IV°/TD Length: 700m Inclination 90°.
    GREEN= Via Giannina: Walter Bonatti, Bruno Ferrario and Andrea Oggioni, (Sep 20th, 1959). Difficulty V°/D+ Length: 700m.
    RED= Canalone est: P. Bonnefant and M. Simonet, (Jul 25th, 1961). Difficulty AD+ Length: 900m.
    YELLOW= Via Cretier: Lino Binel, Renato Chabod and Amilcare Cretier, (Aug 04th, 1829). Difficulty D+ Length: 750m.
    CYAN= Via Bonatti: Walter Bonatti, Roberto Gallieni and Andrea Oggioni, (Aug 06-07th, 1959). Difficulty IV°/V°/TD- Length: 750m.
    MAGENTA= Cresta Kuffner: Moritz von Kuffner, Alexander Burgener and Josef Furrer, (Jul 02-03-04th, 1887). Difficulty IV°/IV°+/D Length: 1.500m.


 
Mont Maudit...

Route Description

    Mont Maudit (4.468m) Gigante side

    Mont Maudit (4.468m) Gigante side

    RED - Cresta Kuffner, difficulty IV°/IV°+/D.
    BLUE - Couloir dell'Androsache, difficuly D+.
    GREEN - Sperone centrale, difficulty, VI°/V°+/TD.


 
Mont Blanc du Tacul

Route Description

    Mont Blanc du Tacul (4.248m) Right Route

    A= Pilier du sérac (via Perroux), Jacques Olivier André, Godefroy Perroux and Philippe Pibarot, (Sep 1990). Difficulty IV°/V°+/A2/6A/TD+ Length: 350m.
    B= Pilastro di destra (via Damilano), Arnaud Boudet, François Damilano, Jean-Claude Siral and Jean-Luc Vanacher, (Aug 20th, 1990). Difficulty V°+/A0/6A/6B/ED- Length: 350m.
    C= Pilastro Hagenmüller-Koenig, Jean-François Hagenmüller and Serge Koenig, (Jul 1979). Difficulty V°+/VI°-/TD+ Length: 350m.
    D= Pilier Martinetti, Marc Martinetti and Christian Mollier, (Aug 23th, 1960). Difficulty III/IV/V/V+/VI/TD+ Length: 450m.
    E= Goulotte Modica-Noury, Gilles Modica and A. Noury, (Jun 23-24th, 1960). Difficulty IV°/ED- Length: 550m.
    F= Couloir Gabarrou-Albinoni, J. P. Albinoni and Patrick Gabarrou, (Jul 05th, 1974). Difficulty V°/TD+ Length: 600m.
    G= Pillier Cecchinel, Walter Cecchinel and Charles Daubas, (Aug 11th, 1973). Difficulty III°+/IV°+/V-/TD- Length: 650m.
    H= Couloir Griffin, S. Billane and Lindsay Griffin, (Dec 30-31th, 1973 and Jan 01th, 1974). Difficulty IV°/TD Length: 600m.
    I= Pilier Coreano, Paul Vance and Jaewonn Yu, (Jun 17th, 1977). Difficulty IV°/V°/V°+/TD Length: 300m.
    L= Couloir Jager, P. Barthélémy and Claude Jager, (Jun 12th, 1964). Difficulty D+ Length: 650m.


 
TRIANGLE DU TACUL

Route Description

    Triangle du Tacul (3.970m) N side

    A= Cresta NE - via per il ghiacciaio sospeso, André Contamine , C. Cassin, A. Fauvre, R. Girod, J. Luc, J. Méchoud and G. Ménard, (Aug 08th, 1969). Difficulty AD+/D- Lenght: 700m.
    B= Canalone NE – via Contamine-Negri, André Contamine, Pierre Labrunie, Jacques Martin and Maurice Negri, (Aug 05th, 1962). Difficulty AD+ Lenght: 700m.
    C= Versante NE – via Petit Frounet, Difficulty D Lenght: 400m.
    D= Cresta NE - via Contamine-Grisole, André Contamine, G. Gren, G. Grisole, A. Poulain and M. Ziegler, (summer 1968). Difficulty AD Lenght: 400 Total length 700m. Inclination 50°-55°-60°-65°.
    E= Via Gabarrou-Marquis, Patrick Gabarrou and Dominique Marquis, (Jun 05th, 1977). Difficulty V+/D+ Lenght: 400m Inclination 50°-55°-65°-80°.
    F= Via Contamine-Mazeaud, André Contamine and Pierre Mazeaud, (Jul 21th, 1963). Difficulty D- Lenght: 400m Inclination 50°-55°-60°.
    G= Versante NW – Goulotte Chèré, Robert Chèré and Jacques Tranchant Parete, (Aug 17th, 1973). Difficulty D+ Lenght: 400m Inclination 45°-50°-60°-70°-75°-80°-85°.


 
The main routes of Monte Bianco ( Satellites ) and other

Route Description

    Dôme du Goûter (4.308m) NW side

    1) = Normal route: E. Headland, G.C. Hodgkinson, C. Hudson, G.C. Joad, Melchior Anderegg, François Couttet and two Mountain Guide, (Jul 29th, 1859). Difficulty: PD Length: 1.750m.
    2) = From N (from the Hump of the Dôme du Goûter): Jacques Balmat, Joseph Carrier, François Paccard and Jean-Michel Tournier, (Jun 08th, 1786). Difficulty: PD.
    3) = WNW Ridge (Payot ridge): First ascent, (Unknown), Difficulty: PD.
    4) = NE Ridge (Taconnaz ridge): R. Baumont and Gérard Decorps, (Oct 09-10th, 1976). Difficulty: AD+/D- Length: 2.700m.


 
The main routes of Monte Bianco ( Satellites )

Route Description

    Aiguille de Bionnassay (4.052m) NW side

    A= Arête de Tricot: Eleonore Hasenclecer, Helène Wirthl, Max Helf, K. G. von Saar and R. Weitzenböck, (Jul 26th, 1911). Difficulty: AD.
    B= N Wall (Central route left): Michel Parmentier and Jean-Baptiste Vaudelle, (Sep 17th, 1977). Length: 1.000m Difficulty: V/TD-.
    C= N Wall (Central route direct): Jean Afanassieff and Bernard Domenech, (Jul 1975). Length: 1.000m Difficulty: IV/TD.
    D= N Wall (Central route right): Bertrand Kempf and Claude Laurendeau, (Aug 30-31th, 1953). Length: 1.000m Difficulty: IV/TD.
    E= NNW and W Arête: E. N. Buxton, F. C. Grove, R. J. S. MacDonald, J. P. Cachat and M. Payot, (Jul 28th, 1865). Length: 1.050m Difficulty: D Inclination 50°.


 
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey

Route Description

    Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4.112m) N side

    CYAN= Gaston Rébuffat, Lionel Terray, Maurice Herzog and Gérard Herzog, (Aug 15th, 1944). Difficulty D- Length: 600m.
    PINK= Michel Bastien, M.Coutin G.Gaudin and Pierre Julien, (Jul 06th, 1952). Difficulty D+ Length: 750m. Inclination 55°.
    GREEN= Aimé Grivel and Renato Chabod, (Sep 04th, 1933). Difficulty D+ Length: 750m.
    RED= Patrick Gabarrou and Masalu Suzuki, (Jul 28th, 1975). Difficulty D Length: 950m.
    YELLOW= Via storica: Paul Güssfeldt, Emile Rey, Christian Klucker and César Ollier, (Aug 15th, 1893). Difficulty AD+ Length: 1300m.
    BLUE= Stefano de Benedetti And Giorgio Passino, (Jun 14th, 1984). Difficulty D Length: 1300m. Inclination 45°-55°60°.


 
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey and Punta Gugliermina

Route Description

    Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4.112m) Freney side

    (1) Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4.112m) (2) Picco Gugliermina (3.893m)

    PINK= "Sperone centrale SW": Patrick Olivier and Dominique Rollin, (Aug 21-22th, 1974). Difficulty V°+/TD+ Lenght: 700m.
    LIGHT BLUE= "Parete SW route Boccalatte": Gabriele Boccalatte and Ninì Pietrasanta, (Aug 24th, 1936). Difficulty IV°/V°+/TD- Lenght: 900m.
    RED= "Parete SW route Grassi-Meneghin": Gian Carlo Grassi and Isidoro Meneghin, (Jul 23th, 1982). Difficulty VI°-/TD+ Lenght: 650m.
    WHITE= "Pilastro SSW route Gervasutti": Gabriele Boccalatte and Giusto Gervasutti, (Aug 17-18th, 1938). Difficulty V°+/TD+/A1 Lenght: 650m.
    YELLOW= "Parete SSE direttissima route Moonlight Shadow": Jean-Marc Boivin and Laurent Broisin, (Oct 05-06th, 1986). Difficulty VI°/VI°+/ED+ Lenght: 650m.
    GREEN= "Parete SSE via diretta": David Belden and Andrzej Mroz, (Jul 11-12-13th, 1971). Difficulty V°+/VI°/ED/A2 Lenght: 650m.


 
North east side of Grand Pilier d Angle

Route Description

    Grand Pilier d'Angle (4.243m) Brenva side

    RED= Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli (Jun 22-23th, 1962). Difficulty ED- Length: 750m total length for mont blanc 1.350m
    GREEN= Walter Cecchinel and Georges Nominé, (Sep 16-17th, 1971). Difficulty V°/V°+/ED Length: 750m total length for mont blanc 1.350m.
    YELLOW= Via Divine Providence, Patrick Gabarrou and Francois Marsigny, (Jul 05-06-07-08th, 1986). Difficulty V°/VI°/VII°/A2/A3/EX Length: 900m total length for mont blanc 1.500m.
    CYAN= Via Faux pas, Jan Fijackowski and Jaclk Kozaczkiewicz, (Aug 06-07-08-09-10th, 1983). Difficulty IV°/IV°+/A1/TD+/ED- Length: 900m total length for mont blanc 1.500m.
    PINK= Walter Bonatti and Toni Gobbi, (Aug 01-02-03th, 1957). Difficulty VI°/V°/V°+/A1/ED- Length: 900m total length for mont blanc 1.600m.
    WHITE= Via diretta Cecoslovacca, Rudolf Haiducik, Jaroslav Jasko and Ondrej Pochyly, (Jul 19-20-21-22th, 1984). Difficulty VI°+/A2/EX- Length: 900m total length for mont blanc 1.600m.
    BLACK= Via Polacca, Eugeniusz Chroback, Tadeusz Laukajtys and Andrey Mroz, (Jul 19-20-21-22th, 1984). Difficulty VI°+/A2/A3/EX- Length: 800m total length for mont blanc 1.400m.
    BLUE= Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli, (Oct 11-12th, 1963). Difficulty V°+/TD+ Length: 600m total length for mont blanc 1.050m.


 
Aiguille Noire de...

Route Description

    Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3.773m) NE side

    BLACK = Versante NE: Difficulty AD+/D- Length: 400m.
    CYAN = Versante NW: Luigi Amedeo di Savoia, duca degli Abruzzi, Laurent Croux and Ciprien Savoye, (Aug 07th, 1901). Difficulty IV°+/D.
    RED = N wall: Adolphe Rey, Alphonse Chenoz and Guido Alberto Rivetti, (Aug 07th, 1928). Difficulty D+ Length: 500m.
    YELLOW = Via Indiana Stones: Joshua Geeter and Ivan Ghirardini, (Oct 09-10th, 1991). Difficulty III°/VI°/VI°/A1/ED Length: 1.000m.
    GREEN = Sperone NE and Cresta E: Cesare Negri and Ettore e Mario Santi, (Aug 07th, 1920). Difficulty IV°/V°/D Length: 1.200m.


 
The main routes of Monte Bianco ( Satellites ) and other

Route Description

    Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3.773m) Freney side

    1) = SE Wall (Desmaison route): Michel Claret and René Desmaison, (Aug 13-14-15th, 1973). Difficulty: ED Length: 600m.
    2) = W Wall (Exitus route): C. Battezati and Daniele Caneparo, (Aug 17-18th, 1991). Difficulty: VII°/A2/ED Length: 600m.
    3) = W Wall and S Ridge Punta Bich (Boccalatte route): Gabriele Boccalatte and Ninì Pietrasanta, (Aug 01th, 1935). Difficulty: VI°/TD+ Length: 650m.
    4) = W Wall (Punta Bich direct): Jean Couzy and René Desmaison, (Aug 03-04th, 1957). Difficulty: VI°/A2/A3/ED+.
    5) = W Wall (Ratti direct route): Vittorio Ratti and Gigi Vitali, (Aug 18-19-20th, 1939). Difficulty: V°+/VI°/A2/TD+: Length 650m.


 
The main routes of Monte Bianco ( Satellites )

Route Description

    Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3.773m)

    1) = N Ridge (Normal route): Ettore Allegra, Louis Mussillon and Henri Brocherel, (Jul 27th, 1902). Difficulty: III°/PD+/AD- Length: 1.150m.
    2) = SE Wall (Couloir Rey): First ascent, (1877 Unknown). Second ascent: M. Baretti, J.J. Maquignaz, Seraphin Henri and Auguste Sibille, (Sep 04th, 1878). Difficulty: AD-.
    3) = SE Wall (Direttissima): M. Canali, Tiziano Nardella, Graziano Bianchi and Emanuele Galimberti, (Aug 07-08-09th, 1976). Difficulty: V°+/A3/ED Length: 1.000m.
    4) = SE Wall (Cretier direct route): Amilcare Cretier and Basilio Ollietti, (Jul 25th, 1827). Difficulty: IV°/D+ Length: 1.000m.
    5)
    = SE Wall (Punta Bich direct): Giacomo Chiara, Bortolo Sandri, Luigi Perenni and Marino Stenico, (Aug 07-08-09th, 1937). Difficulty: VI°: Length 1.000m.
    6) = SE Wall (Manera-Meneghin route): Ugo Manera and Isidorio Meneghin, (Aug 15-16th, 1981). Difficulty: VI°/A3/ED- Length: 700m.
    7) = E Edge: Marco Bernardi, Gian Carlo Grassi and Franco Salino, (Aug 01th, 1980). Difficulty: VI°/VI°+/ED- Length: 500m.


 
Mont Blanc Routes...

Route Description

    Tour Ronde (3.792m) N side

    LIGHT BLUE= "NE Pilier Bernezat route" Jean Luis Bernezat and Christian Colomb, (Jun 17th, 1962). Difficulty V°+/TD- Lenght: 350m.
    RED= "NE Couloir-Arête" Eugenio Bron, Franco Pedrotti and Carlo Sacchi, (Aug 13th, 1940). Difficulty IV°+/D/A0 Lenght: 350m.
    BLUE= "N Wall left sector" Gino Buscaini, (Jun 19th, 1959). Difficulty IV+/D Lenght: 400m.
    LIGHT GREEN= "Côte centrale" Giovanni Enriques, Leopoldo Gasparotto and Ettore Guidetti, (Aug 17th, 1930).
    PURPLE= "N Wall" Francesco Gonella and Alexis Berthod, (Aug 23th, 1886). Inclination 50°/55° Lenght: 450m.
    GREEN= "NW Arête right sector" Alessandro and Franco Giorgetta, Giorgio Glarey and Giampietro Lampis, (Aug 1963).


 
Mont Blanc Routes Beta

Route Description

    Tour Ronde (3.792m) W side

    RED= "NW Couloir". Gaston Rébuffat and Robert Manzaras, (Jul 13th, 1967). Difficulty D+ Lenght: 300m.
    GREEN= "W Pillier route Mollier-Payot". Christian Mollier and Georges Payot,(Jul 23th, 1961). Difficulty V°/V°+/TD Lenght: 270m.
    LIGHT BLUE= "W Wall route You play with fire". Pascal Chataing and Frederic Gentet, (Aug 18th, 1990). Difficulty VI°+ Lenght: 250m.
    YELLOW= "W Wall right route". René Corompt and Pierre de Galbert, (Jul 30th, 1975). Difficulty V°/V°+/TD Lenght: 250m.
    PINK= "W Couloir". Renato Chabod and Giusto Gervasutti, (Jul 27th, 1934). Difficulty AD Lenght: 300m.
    BLUE= "NW Wall de l'épaule SW". Jean-Marc Boivin and Patrick Decorps, (1980). Difficulty TD- Lenght: 200m.


 
<b>GRAND CAPUCIN</b>

Route Description

    Grand Capucin (3.838m) W side

    A= Pilastro SSW - via O sole mio, Michel Piola and Pierre Alain Steiner, (Apr 21-22th, 1984). Difficulty VI°/A0/ED Lenght: 250m.
    B= Diedro e parete S – via degli Svizzeri, Claude Asper, Marcel Bron, Mario Grossi and Marcel Morel. (Jul 24-25-26th, 1956). Difficulty III°/IV°/V°/VI°/A1/A2/TD+ Lenght: 300m.
    C= Parete S – via Sourire de l'été, Gaetano and Romain Vogler, (Aug 24-25th, 1981). Difficulty VI°/A2/ED+ Lenght: 300m.
    D= Parete S – via De fil en aiguille, Jean Luc Amstutz, Vincent Banderet and Romain Vogler, (Jul 31th, 1991). Difficulty VI°/VII°/A1/EX- Lenght: 300m.
    E= Parete SE – via Fragrant délire, Jean Marc Boivin and Michel Piola, (Aug 13-14th, 1983). Difficulty VI°/A3/ED+ Lenght: 400m.
    F= Parete SE – via Elisir d'Astaroth, Michel Piola, Pierre Alain Steiner and Romain Vogler, (Aug 18-19-20th, 1981). Difficulty VI°/A2/ED+ Lenght: 400m.
    G= Parete E – via Bonatti, Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo, (Jul 20-21-22-23th, 1951). Difficulty IV°/V°+/VII°/A1/A2/A3/TD+ Lenght: 400m.
    H= Parete E – via Po-eticomania, Fabio Delisi and Enrico Jovane, (Aug 01-02th, 1986). Difficulty VII°/A2 Lenght: 400m.
    I= Parete E – via Directe des Capucins, Eric Belin, Jean Marc Boivin and Martial Moioli, (Jul 09-10th, 1983). Difficulty VI°/A0/ED Lenght: 400m.
    L= Parete S - variante Panoramix, C. Dalphin, R. Habersaat, T. Grassin C. Reuille and B. Voltolini, (summer 1962). Difficulty VII°/A2.
    M= Parete E – via Eau et gaz à tous les étages, Jean Marc Boivin, F. Diaferia and Martial Moioli, (Jul 28-29th, 1984). Difficulty VI°+/A3/ED+ Lenght: 400m.
    N= Parete S - via Voyage selon Gulliver, Pierre Alain Steiner and Michel Piola, (Jul 18-19th, 1982). Difficulty VI°/A0/ED+ Lenght: 300m.
    O= Parete SE – via Lecco, Aldo Anghileri and Pino Negri Jun 29-30 Jul 01; Guerrino Cariboni, Casimiro Ferrari and Carlo Mauri, (Jun 30-Jul 01th, 1968). Difficulty V°+/VI°/VII°/A1/A2/ED Lenght: 300m.

Routes for secondary importance

 
Trident du Tacul

Route Description

    Trident du Tacul (3.693m) S side

    RED= "Route via diretta Bonatti": Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli, (Sep 18th, 1963). Difficulty: ED/VI°-/A3 length 180m.
    GREEN= "Route Lépiney": Paolo Moretti and Claudio Zavattero -in winter-, (Jan 14th, 1976). Difficulty: VI°+/V°+/D length 250m.
    YELLOW= "Route Eclipse": Jean-Luc Amstutz and Romain Vogler, (Aug 19th, 1989). Difficulty: ED+/A0 length 250m.
    LIGHT BLUE= Route "Les intouchables": Hervé Bouvard and Michel Piola, (Jun 29th, 1992). Difficulty VI°/A0 Lenght: 250m.


 
Le Trident du Tacul

Route Description

    Trident du Tacul (3.693m) E side

    RED= Couloir des Aiguillettes (normal route): Gabriele Boccalatte, Luigi Bon and Piero Ghiglione, (Sep 06th, 1930). Difficulty: AD+/IV°+ length 180m.
    YELLOW= Route La peau et les os: JeanLuc Amstutz and Romain Vogler, (Jul 19th, 1991). Difficulty: ED/VI°/A0 length 200m.
    GREEN= Via Diretta: R. Thérond and R. Sennelier, (Jul 22th, 1960). Difficulty: TD+/V°/A2 length 240m.


 
PETIT CAPUCIN

Route Description

    Petit Capucin (3.692m) NE side

    YELLOW= Route "Olivier Challéat and Bernard Germain". Difficulty TD-/V°+ Lenght: 350m.
    WHITE= Route "Luigi Glarey and Sergio Viotto". Difficulty ED/VI° Lenght: 350m.
    RED= Route "Gianni Ribaldone and Luigi Vaccari". Difficulty ED-/VI°/A2 Lenght: 350m.
    LIGHT BLUE= Route "Goulotte Valeria", Gian Carlo Grassi and Valeria Rudatis". Difficulty D+ Lenght: 350m.
    GREEN= Route "Gervasutti", Carlo Arnoldi, Giuseppe Gagliardone and Giusto Gervasutti. Difficulty D+/III°/IV°/V° Lenght: 250m.
    PURPLE= Route "Mario Bisaccia and Gino Buscaini". Difficulty III°/VI°/VI°+ Lenght: 100m.


 
Pic Adolphe Rey

Route Description

    Pic Adolphe Rey (3.536m) S side

    Red = Via diretta: Angelo Bozzetti, Luigi Pramotton and Piero Rosset, 12 agosto 1964. Development, (150m), difficulty TD+/A3.
    Yellow = Via La notte di S. Lorenzo (spigolo SW): Enrico Rosso and Marco Schwarzenberg, 18 luglio 1985. Development, (180m), difficulty TD+/A1/6b.
    White = Parete SW and S: Arturo Ottoz end Piero Nava, 31 luglio 1952.
    Development, (180m), difficulty TD/V°+/A1.
    Green = Via Inouït (parete S): Gérard Long and Roman Vogler, 18 agosto 1991. Development, (200m), difficulty 6b/A0.


 
LA CHANDELLE

Route Description

    La Chandelle (3.610m) E side

    Red - Route "Bonatti" Walter Bonatti and Giorgio Galieni. Difficulty TD+/V°/V°+/VI°/A1/A2 Lenght: 180m.
    Yellow - Route "La ligne blanche" Jean-Luc Amstutz and Romain Volger. Difficulty ED+/A0 Lenght: 200m.


 
Mont Blanc Routes...

Route Description

    Pyradmide du Tacul (3.468m) NE Wall

    RED= "E Arête". Evaristo Croux, Laurent Grivel and Arturi Ottoz, (Jul 13th, 1940). Difficulty IV°/VI°+/D Lenght: 270m.
    GREEN= "NE Wall route Le jour et la Nuit". Gérard Long and Romain Vogler, (Aug 19th, 1990). Difficulty VI°/A0 Lenght: 250m.
    LIGHT BLUE= "W Wall route Taxi Surprise". Gérard Hopfgartner, Muriel Louis, Michel Piola and Romain Vogler, (May 29th, 1985). Difficulty VI°/A0 Lenght: 250m.
    YELLOW= "NE Wall route Monaci". Michel Arrisi and Daniel Monaci, (Apr 25th, 1975). Difficulty V°/TD/A1 Lenght: 250m.
    BLUE= "NE Wall route Le ronfleur paradoxal". Bernard Domenech, Claude and Yves Remy, (Aug 22th, 1984). Difficulty V°/D+ Lenght: 300m.
    LIGHT GREEN= "NE Wall route Armes égales". Bernard Domenech, Claude and Yves Remy, (Aug 21th, 1984). Difficulty VI°/TD- Lenght: 300m.
    PURPLE= "NNE Wall route Lenoir". Maurice Lenoir and miss Dudognon and J. Martin, (Aug 22th, 1984). Difficulty V°/D/A1 Lenght: 250m.
    BROWN= "NNE Wall route Pinelli Sabbadini". Carlo Alberto Pinelli and Carlo Sabbadini, (Aug 05th, 1958). Difficulty V°/D/A1 Lenght: 230m.

Essential Gear

Complete alpine equipment.

Attrezzatura alpinistica completa.

Refuges and Bivouacs

Books and Maps

BOOKS:
  • "neige, glace et mixte" le topo du massif du Mont-Blanc (Tome 2) de L'Envers des Aiguilles au bassin de Tré-la-Tête, François Damilano JMEditions.
  • "MONTE BIANCO (1)" Guida Vallot, settori: Monte Bianco, Vallée Blanche, Aiguilles de Chamonix, Edizioni Mediterranee, Ristampa settembre 2003.
  • "Guida delle Alpi Occidentali", di Giovanni Bobba e Luigi Vaccarone C.A.I. Sezione di Torino Volume II (parte II), 25 Maggio 1896.
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Monte Bianco" (Vol. I°) di Gino Buscaini-Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, 1994 (in Italian).
  • "Guida dei Monti d'Italia-Monte Bianco" (Vol. II°) di R. Chabod, L. Grivel, S. Saglio, G. Buscaini-Club Alpino Italiano/Turing Club Italiano, 1968 (in Italian).
  • "80 itinerari di Escursionismo Alpinismo e Sci Alpinismo in Valle d'Aosta", di Osvaldo Cardellina, Ed. Musumeci, Giugno 1977 (in Italian); seconda Ed. Luglio 1981; terza Ed. Luglio 1984; (in French), prima Ed. Febbraio 1978; seconda Ed. Marzo 1980.
  • "I Rifugi della Valle d'Aosta" di Stefano Ardito, Ed. Guide iter, Febbraio 2003.





MAPS:
  • Kompass "Massiccio del Monte Bianco Valle d'Aosta Sentieri e Rifugi" Carta turistica 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Massiccio del Monte Bianco" (n°4), Torino, 1998 1:50.000.
  • I.G.C. Istituto Geografico Centrale Torino "Monte Bianco-Courmayeur-Chamonix-La Thuile" (n°107), 1:25.000.
  • Kompass "Massiccio del Monte Bianco Valle d'Aosta" Carta escursioni, bike e sci alpinismo 1:50.000.
  • L'Escursionista "Monte Bianco Courmayeur" (n°1) Edizioni Rimini 2004 1:25.000.
  • IGN Carte de randonnée CHAMONIX - MASSIF DU MONT BLANC 3630 OT 1:25.000.
  • Edizioni Tabacco "Mont Blanc" Udine, 1978 1:50.000.
  • Studio F.M.B. Bologna 1988 "Monte Bianco-Mont Blanc" 1:50.000.
  • IGN institut géographique national genoble mont-blanc parc national de la vanoise (n°53), 1:100.000.

Acknowledgements

The fundamental support given by my friend "Osva" for the "Overview" with translation.