We found a route up the north face that was mostly class 3, with two short class 5 sections. Lot's of exposure on this one.
Last minute decision to climb and the only one to step up was my friend, George. It was his first ever multi-pitch and TRAD climb and he did really well. It took us about 7 hours house-to-house from Albuquerque.
Solo climb from East Saddle. Climbed over the tower (Class ~5.4-5.5) before the notch instead of traversing below it. Nice climb/scramble, though somewhat short.
Fun climb, definitely had a pitch of class 5. This was my first trad lead. Amazing views and great fall color.
I did the SW ridge a long time ago, it is still one of the best multi pitch trad route adventures I've been on despite years of climbing.
I didn't read the previous post before I went out in regards to the rating. I went out with crampons, ice axe etc. and couldnt get more then 100' up from the saddle. This is a sandbagged rating, this is harder then some of the other rated routes in the sandias.
Climbed the peak just 3 weeks after dislocating my shoulder. I seem to remember finding an easier way down (class 2-3) by zig-zagging down the north face.
A friend and I attempted the East Saddle Route but were turned around for lack of time. There was much more snow in the Sandias than expected...and the supposed 4th class seemed more like a 5.4 with the exposure and non-straightforwardness. We turned around after realizing the time, and viewing a section of loose blocks that looked unappealing. I would like to go back and complete it when I have the time!