The Normal Route

The Normal Route

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 46.16380°N / 10.89280°E
Route Type: Technical rock climb
Time Required: Most of a day
Difficulty: IV

Approach


Start from the Pedrotti Hut (30-45 mins) or the Brentei (1.5 hours). Follow the Bochette path to the Bochetta del Campanile Basso.

A short descent leads to the start on the south face.

Route Description


270m, 13 pitches.

Climb a chimney (III) and the Pooli Wall (IV) trending right all the time. Eventually reach the South East Arete and continue up and right across the East Face to the foot of a chimney on the left.
Climb this (III) to reach the 'Stradone Provinciale', a large ledge which runs right across the North Face. Walk along this to the right to the West Shoulder.
Climb the obvious chimney/crack system for 60m (III) to a ledge. Trend left for another 12m to the 'Terrazzino Gabari' and climb to a pulpit on the North West Arete. Make an 8m traverse to the left to the foot of the 'Ampferer Wall' on the North Face. Clmb this wall to the summit (IV).

Essential Gear


Full rack and a 100m rope or two 50m ropes. There are pegs in place on the most difficult sections and belays are equipped with ring bolts (also used for abseiling).

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.