A team organized by Sierra Mountaineering Club climbed this route as a consolation prize after finding both Mendel Couloirs gone, and completely bone dry. Darwin north face was a fun climb, with just enough ice in the upper sections to place some screws. We descended the north ridge in one long rappel then downclimbed.
Miguel Carmona and I soloed the North Face with the narrow gully exit in October 1985. We hiked in over Lamarck Col, camped by the upper Darwin Lake and climbed the face from there. There were hard ice conditions on the face, two ice tools were needed. Wonderful ice scramble.
Climbed the smaller gully to the right of the larger snow face. Then hopped on the rock prow to the left for three pitches of 5.8 rock to reach the summit plateau.
couldn't resist such a line during a piute pass to lamarck col ski tour. big, wide open, with a fun narrow entrance at the top. whee!